Insider View - What Price Authenticity

Hilton Park"People abroad no longer think Ireland possesses a naturally unspoiled environment, because the truth is out there."

“Authentic: not imaginary, false fake or imitation: genuine, OED." Ah. So that's what it means, says himself, closing the dictionary. One might be forgiven for believing that it means just the opposite; we are told that the diktat currently regimenting bed and breakfast establishments will provide visitors with an "authentic" experience of Irish life.

The 40 page document, mentioned on these pages before, which insists even for its basic level of approval, that the premises conform to a rigid set of rules will have the effect of littering the country with identical, unauthentic clones.

This has a special irony since the emphasis this season from on high is 'fun,' with photographs of grinning lovelies bursting forth from sun-kissed shores and it's not hard to imagine the smiles vanishing when the reality of staying in an Irish home turns out to be in a place with 'professionally printed menus', 'prices on display in the hall' and a room number on the door.

It's hard to imagine a host being fun when nervously anticipating an 'inspection' at any time, even of the private family rooms, as is permitted. The son of this house stalks us with the rule book. In the past the beautifully balanced see-sawing between chaos and good service reflected, I suggest, all that was loved in Irish hospitality. Why can't we cherish idiosyncrasies rather than seek to eradicate them?

When I first came to live in Ireland some 38 years ago, I was told that this was a country where you could do anything you wanted, as long as it was called by a different name. Hence contraception became period adjusting, abortion was a holiday in England, no divorce was allowed but everywhere people were leaving spouses to set up home with another. Today we seem to take a concept and make the facts, or fiction, fit it.

Take, for example, the word 'green' used as a philosophy, not a colour. By its very nature, business tourism is not green. In a world where video-conferencing is available almost everywhere, the notion of encouraging business people to fly all over the globe to meet up can never be construed as green, however lucrative it may be. Yet in the publication 'A Guide to Running Green Meetings and Events' advice is dished out on making your un-green event somehow environmentally positive.

And no, authors of this publication, people abroad no longer do think Ireland possesses a naturally unspoilt environment, because the truth is out there. We can pat ourselves on the back that the Lonely Planet Guide still places us amongst the friendliest of countries, but the idea that we are perceived abroad as unspoiled is a myth. And the trouble with using the word 'authentic' in relation to accommodation is that it gives the false impression that the historic or familial is being regarded. It's hard to imagine a lovely old Rectory or fishing lodge fulfilling even the minimum standards demanded by Failte Ireland without the buildings being entirely gutted.

An American visitor to our house the other day commented on its 'charmingly shabby' aspect. "Don't say that, someone might hear you." I cried, distressed beyond measure. Seeing that I was hurt, our visitor insisted that his comment had been a compliment, he liked the nuances of a house lived in by the same family for generations. He welcomed the fact that we don't have televisions in the bedrooms and that one of the wallpapers dates back to 1830. Unfortunately we are living in a country still ashamed of much of its history and determined to erase it.

Two honest toilers, my husband and myself, were once told that we belonged to a 'sub-culture', presumably because we were not part of the mainstream Catholic, GAA, Gaelic speaking Ireland. Can a sport-hating atheist contribute to cultural life here today? Happily, I think our time may have come.

At a recent conference of the Irish Historical Houses Association, Terence Dooley, Professor of History at Maynooth College announced a new course in Built Heritage Studies, reflecting a new interest in conservation. So far this summer, in spite of everything, there has been a lot of fun out there, too, with blue skies and festivals and improvised events around every bend.

In a short drive the other day we passed A Duck Race, a Mad Hatters Tea Parry and a whole town hosting a Get to Know You event. It's hard to imagine these homely happenings occurring during the Tiger years.

Do we dare to hope that the clouds of recession are breaking up? Even the most-asked question in hospitality "How are your bookings?" just recently is more likely to be met with a response like "Looking up!" than the gloomy murmurings of a few months ago.

And, just as long as those who regulate our business allow us to remain 'charmingly shabby' for a while yet, we may survive, a sub-culture struggling to hang on to what many people out there come here to find.





Together with her husband Johnny, Lucy Madden runs their magnificent 18th century mansion, Hilton Park, Clones, Co Monaghan as a country house which is open to private guests, groups, small weddings and conferences. The restored formal gardens are also open by arrangement. Lucy is a keen organic gardener and also a member of the Irish Food Writers Guild.

Hospitality Ireland MagazineKindly supplied by the respected food service and drinks industry magazine, Hospitality Ireland. Click here to read more about them

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