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An Leath Phingin Eile

Eddie and Gaelen Malcolmson opened their lovely restaurant here in 2007, in the premises previously occupied by the veteran Kenmare restaurant An Leath Phingin, and it is now well established as one of the best restaurants in a town that has earned renown for the quality of its food and hospitality.

The building has a lot going for it in terms of atmosphere - on two floors with lots of wood and open stone in view, it has a warm and welcoming feeling even on a wet night. The back room was changed to allow for more seating and the tables are close - but not too close for comfort, and friendly, well-briefed waiting staff work well under Gaelen’s direction to make a visit here a real pleasure.

Eddie is a fine classical chef in the modern European style, and his wide-ranging menus are the kind that make you want try everything.

There’s a balanced choice of eight equally desirable dishes on each course, based mainly on local ingredients and including produce from Billy Clifford’s organic farm - char-grilled fillet of Irish Angus beef with peppered pommes frites, button mushrooms and red wine jus, is a favourite example.

You’ll find plenty of treats among the starters, including speciality dishes like a perfect twice-baked crab soufflé with hazelnut crust and a crab & tomato bisque, while main courses with a leaning towards seafood may include gently spiced pan-fried monkfish, with creamy coconut & coriander rice and a light curry cream.

Classically delicious desserts might include home-made ices and sorbets, and perhaps a just-set vanilla pannacotta with fresh raspberries & confit orange zest - or there are farmhouse cheeses with home-made digestive biscuits (and, perhaps, a glass of LBV port).

A carefully selected wine list includes eight interesting house wines (one of the reds is Massaya from Lebanon, another is Moillard organic pinot noir; and, unusually, there’s a Spanish house rosé, Cristo Vega), offering excellent value at €19.50-30, and all available by the bottle, 1/2 litre or ¼ litre, and there are lovely dessert wines too.

Prices are very fair, but a 2/3 course Value Menu at €24.95/29.95 is especially accessible.

Consistently excellent cooking, lovely service and a good atmosphere make this restaurant stand out – everybody loves it.

Seats 40 (private room, 16); children welcome (high chair). D only Wed-Mon, 6-10. A la carte; also early value 2/3 course D €24.95/29.95 daily except Sat. House wine from €19. Closed Mon & Tue; call ahead to check opening times off season. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Town centre.