The traditional exterior of The Glenside pub belies the modern restaurant that’s nestling under its thatched roof. This separate business venture operates independently to the neighbourhood local, and is run by a friendly team who clearly love good food.
Comprising two adjoining rooms and an open kitchen, it’s a spacious restaurant that’s been designed with comfort in mind (although approached by along flight of stairs, so not accessible to all). Despite being well appointed with lovely feature wallpaper the colour scheme may not quite gel for us, and it would be nice to see a little art on the walls – but, that minor quibble aside, the food here is outstanding, with every dish cleverly conceived and perfectly executed.
The menu offers great variety, with fish, chicken, meat, and pasta, each dish highlighting the kitchen’s confidence and ability, as well as a respect for the seasons. A salad of poached pears with extra mature Cashel Blue served with rocket and candied walnuts is a triumph, all for a mere €4.
Humble mushrooms on toast become a moreish composition of sourdough smothered with mushroom duxelle and a braised flat cap layered with melting parmesan. For around €15 you can expect roast rump of lamb perfectly pink with a textbook potato fondant, silky spiced turnip puree and sautéed spinach.
A short-ish wine list features a good choice of styles, with almost half available by the glass, and most bottles costing between €20 and €30.
The Arch Bistro is a real gem, the kind that would thrive in every suburb throughout Ireland. The food is top notch and the prices are refreshingly affordable. Most starters are about €4, with mains averaging around €14. (With a 3-course early bird for €18 and Sunday lunch for €19, this is some of the best value dining in the country.)
The cooking is skilled and accomplished and the service is thoughtful, friendly and attentive. It may be tucked off the beaten track, but The Arch Bistro is definitely worth a detour.
Seats 75. Children welcome (high chair, childrens menu), air conditioning. L&D Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30 & 5.30-10pm, Sun 12-3.30 & 5-8.30. Set 2 course L €12.50, 3 course early bird D 5.30-6.30pm €18, also a la carte L&D. House wine from €20. Closed Mon. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
