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Backstage @ Bels

Jeff and Tara Nolans’ theatrical theme for Bels is seen in objets d’art on the walls, menus that are organised like the acts of a play - and special pre- and post- theatre meals planned in conjunction with the new local theatre.

The restaurant has large windows looking out onto outdoor tables and the busy street outside, which diners can watch from window tables; the front room is elegant and relaxing, and a few steps lead down to the back room and the open kitchen where Jeff (who was formerly head chef at Roly’s in Dun Laoghaire) presides.

Menus that reassuringly carry Euro-Toques logos also state that dishes are adaptable for both coeliac and vegetarian diets - very down to earth, and considerate and the general cooking style, of fresh variations on old favourites, is appealing.

Good breakfast and light lunch/terrace menus are offered but, like the theatre, the kitchen really comes into its own in the evening. ‘Act One’ offers a good choice of eight promising starters including, for example, duck lover paté with spice plum chutney, and while catch of the day for ‘Act Two’ could be classic Dover sole on the bone, you may also find rump of Wicklow lamb with garlic mash, spring carrots, olive and rosemary jus - and a vegetarian dish of Ardsallagh goat’s cheese, tomato, courgette and aubergine tart with baby spinach & gazpacho is always a contender for best dish of the night.

Luscious ‘Act Three’ desserts offer very seasonal dishes such as Wexford strawberries, or rhubarb crumble with Chantilly cream, or there’s an Irish farmhouse cheese selection.

On Sunday nights it’s all change at Bel’s however, as Jeff puts on a loively anti pasti / tapas menu – accompanied by live Spanish music.

A nice wine list offers daily wine specials as well as house wines, but no tasting notes.

Staff, under Tara Nolan’s direction, are particularly warm, friendly and knowledgeable.

It’s little wonder that Backstage@Bel’s has carved out a well-deserved niche in the Greystones dining scene.

Seats 60 (outdoors, 18); reservations recommended; toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome (high chair, childrens menu, baby changing facilities); Food served daily 9am-10pm (12-9pm Sun); B 9-12pm, L 12-4pm, D 5-9pm. Value D €22, 5-7pm; house wine from €20. SC 10% on groups 10+. Closed Mon, 25 Dec, Good Fri. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Middle of Greystones