Having been through several changes of management in recent years, it has recently been taken over by a young husband and wife team, Aidan and Emily Feeney, who are restoring its reputation to that of its former glory days.
It’s comfortable and welcoming, with an open fireplace and fresh flowers in the reception area, as well as plenty of sofas and chairs. Emily and her team of local staff are very friendly and quick to settle arriving guests in with an aperitif and the menu, which is nicely presented in a leather cover.
The bright, spacious restaurant is designed to make the most of the view and, with well-appointed linen-clad tables, simple white tableware and gleaming glasses, it makes an attractive setting for Aidan’s good cooking.
The menu offers seven dishes on each course, giving plenty of choice, and the selection is well balanced between fish, chicken, red meat (probably beef, although local lamb may feature too) and duck.
There’s an understandable leaning towards fish, with dishes such as traditional prawn cocktail (made with langoustine/Dublin Bay prawns) and Green Island mackerel tartlet among the starters, a particularly tasty house chowder, and main courses that include the house special - Traditional House Style Seafood Pot with Saffron Bouillabaisse. This is quite a dish, a big portion served piping hot in the pot with a fine selection of accompanying vegetables; there are lots of different fish - mussels, salmon, monkfish, cod, langoustine – and it looks lovely in its pretty bouillabaisse sauce.
Dessert might be a bit of a challenge after so much good food, but tempting lighter options mayinclude a tasty light Vanilla and Raspberry Crème Brulée - an ideal treat to savour while enjoying the fading light over the bay.
There’s a generosity to the cooking here but, although you may expect the hearty servings that will be appreciated by people who have been out in the fresh air all day, big portions don’t come at the expense of presentation, and everything looks appetising, fresh and colourful.
A reasonably priced wine list is divided by style and in keeping with the menu; average price about €25, some available by the glass.
Emily leads a very efficient and charming front of house brigade who will make you feel very welcome and can advise on all aspects of the menu.