Pol OhEannraich, former head chef at Dax, has taken over this basement premises at the canal end of Baggot Street, with the aim of offering 'quality food at reasonable prices' along with a broad choice of wines (a full 60 wines are available both by the full bottle and 275ml carafe).
This Dublin restaurants interior is more expansive than suggested by the somewhat foreboding entrance, and hidden out the back a small terrace makes for an attractive option on sunny afternoons and balmy evenings. A tapas menu is served both here and at the small bar area, including perhaps some finger-licking gambas sautéed in garlic, rosemary and lemon.
Throughout the restaurant proper a daily lunch menu offers two or three courses for E12/E14, while an early evening menu served from 5.30pm through to 7.30pm keeps prices lower than the prime cuts served on the short à la carte menu.
When the Guide first visited it was still finding its feet, but Pol's previous form suggested this could be somewhere that would carve out a niche for itself – and how right that hunch has turned out to be.
Since then this neat but unassuming place has impressed with accomplished cooking and good value, and it looks set to take its place among the next wave of restaurants coming on stream with new generation owner-chefs at the helm.
Nice well-priced wine list too.
Seats 75 (outdoors, 25); children welcome before 7pm; air conditioning; no wheelchair access. L Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm, D Mon-Sat 5-10.30pm. Lunch & Dinner a la carte. Closed Sat L, Sun, bank hols. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
