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Bodéga!

With its warm Mediterranean colours, this place would bring the sun out on the darkest of days: interesting artwork, pine tables covered with the occasional oilcloth, a mix’n’match collection of seating; and, now firmly established as a Waterford restaurant that delivers quality and value, it is always busy.

The chef is French and you will find many favourites like beef bourguinon, Toulouse sausage with choucroûte and moules frites mingling with the international dishes.

A written menu offers everything from lunchtime dishes like soup of the day and quiche of the day, to Bodega fish pie and steaks, to dinner specialities such as roast magret & confit de canard with sweet red cabbage & apple.

But, although menus are quite extensive and offer a wide range, their particular strength lies in their strong selection and skilled cooking of fish; there may be eight or more local fish available on the menu, possibly including an excellent Kilmore fish cake and delcious mains of crisply fried John Dory fillets successfully married with a mango garnish, and tuna served correctly rare with as marinade of soy and ginger adding flavour and moisture to this difficult fish.

There are also blackboard specials, which are likely to be a good bet - and friendly staff are well-informed to advise.

At lunchtime the place fills up with young people, some with children - who are made especially welcome - and there are lots of regulars.

Dinner is a little more structured and the prices heat up a bit too, but it’s still good value - and at about €21/26 for 2/3 courses, the early dinner is a snip.

Regular live music too, with big names including Mary Coughlan, Freddie White, Eleanor McCoy.

Seats 80; children welcome (high chair). L Sun-Fri, 12-5pm & D Mon-Sun 5-10pm (to 10.30pm Fri/Sat). Early D 2/3 course, about €21/26, Mon-Fri 5.30-7pm. Also a la carte. House wines from €20. SC discretionary. Closed Sat L, bank hol Mons, Good Fri, 25/26 Dec, 1 Jan. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

A few doors down from the Applemarket, in city centre.