Convenient to the bustling town of Naas, this pleasing bar and restaurant is located in a smart modern building and has ample parking.
It opened to some acclaim in 2009, with well known chef Fred Cordonnier (formerly of top Dublin restaurants Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, and The Tea Room Restaurant at The Clarence Hotel) attracting a loyal clientèle from an early stage.
Fred has since moved on to nearby Ballyfin House but, after a short closure, the restaurant at The Brown Bear re-opened - with standards being kept up admirably well.
The owner, Eugene Brennan, greets arriving guests personally in the bar, which is always a nice touch and gets things off to a good start.
The setting is unchanged – the square, balconied dining room is set up handsomely with polished darkwood table, linen napkins, quality glassware, china and cutlery - and a beautiful basket of breads is offered promptly, along with iced water.
Food lovers will be delighted to find that they not only grow their own potatoes and vegetables but also have their own pigs – and menus impress immediately, offering a wide range of seasonal dishes and with all suppliers credited.
Dishes especially taking the Guide’s fancy on a recent visit included an outstanding starter of panfried mackerel and scallop, which was served with soy gel and sesame dressing; perfectly seasoned and cooked, it was well worth the €12 charged.
Main courses are likely to include some very good pork dishes (pork belly and braised pork cheek, perhaps, with seasonal accompaniments) and further tempting fish choices, such as a delicious early summer dish of panfried John Dory with asparagus, broad beans and lemon dressing (about €24).
Classic desserts (about €7) feature seasonal fruits – poached rhubarb pannacotta with rhubarb jelly and a vanilla macaroom, perhaps, or raspberry parfait with fresh raspberries, mascarpone cream.
The cooking throughout is of a very high standard and, complemented by good service from friendly, knowledgeable staff, the experience offers genuine value for money.
A very good wine list offers wines by the glass, carafe or bottle, all reasonably priced.
The Brown Bear is clearly in safe hands and looks set to develop its early reputation as a good food destination.
Seats 72 (outdoors, 24, private room, 36). D Wed-Sat 6-9pm, L Sat & Sun 12.30-2.30. 2/3 course early bird D €23/28, also a la carte L&D. Children welcome before 7pm (high chair, childrens menu, baby changing facilities); wheelchair accessible (toilets & public areas); air conditioning. House wine from €22.50. The Bar is open from 12.30 daily. Restaurant closed D Sun, Mon, Tue, last 2 weeks Feb. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
