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Browns Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie

The city’s leading contemporary restaurant has a devoted local following. Always immaculate, inside and out, it’s a relaxed space with subtle blends of natural colours, textures and finishes - proprietor-chef Ivan Taylor’s cool cooking keeps them coming back for more; his approach to food never stands still, and the cooking is consistently creative.

Wide-ranging menus offer a range of fresh-flavoured dishes, including delicious starters like spiced crumbled beef served in a light vegetable broth with pecorino, and a perfectly judged main dish of char-grilled rare-breed sirloin steak on a fine balsamic onion gravy with a horesradish Yorkshire pudding & pea purée and braised root vegetables - one of several examples of classics that have been modernised without forgetting the basics.

Desserts also ring some changes with the classics - or espresso, vin santo & home-made biscotti might make a pleasing alternative.

All round, there’s imagination, a certain amount of style, dedication and consistency - not bad after more than 20 years in business.

*Browns2Go service offered, for boardroom lunches and corporate entertaining.

L Tue-Fri, 12-2; D Tue-Sat, 5.30-Late. Early 2/3 course D Tue-Fri, £11.50/14.50 (5.30-6.45). House wine about £15. Closed Sun & Mon, 1st 2 weeks Aug. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser, Switch.

Directions:

In a cul-de-sac opposite the old Waterside railway station : Belfast-Derry road (A6), turn left at Melrose Terrace & branch right at sign. (Or park at station and walk across).