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Café Paradiso

Denis Cotter's ground-breaking vegetarian restaurant produces such exciting mainstream cooking that even the most committed of carnivores admit to relishing every mouthful and it attracts devotees from all over Ireland - and beyond.

Seasonal specialities that people are happy to cross the country for include a beautiful beetroot mousse with orange scented yoghurt, served with fennel crispbreads and a rocket, pear & crisped beetroot salad, which is a brilliant example of the cooking style at this colourful little restaurant.

It's a modest, slightly bohemian place with a busy atmosphere and, although it may have a persistently well-worn look these days, there is plenty to compensate for any downside in the surroundings - and staff are not only friendly and helpful but obviously enthusiastic about their work.

Seasonal menus based on the best organic produce available are topped up by daily specials, which might include potato gnocchi or a vegetable risotto - and desserts, such as blackberry fool or a mountainous Strawberry Pavlova, which are also gorgeous. A well-priced global wine list also has a number of organic wines; half carafes and glasses offer quality at a fair price.

The cooking is never less than stunning - and significantly, in this era of "cheffy" food and big egos, the creator of this wonderful food describes himself simply as "owner cook" - and many of Denis Cotter's creations are featured in his acclaimed books: Café Paradiso Cookbook, Café Paradiso Seasons, and Wild Garlic Gooseberries...And Me.

Café Paradiso may be small and a little tired around the edges, but it still packs a mighty punch.

*Paradiso Rooms, three rooms are available over the restaurant for dinner guests, at a room rate of about €160.

Seats 45 (outdoor seating, 6); children welcome; toilets wheelchair accessible. L Tue-Sat, 12-3, D Tue-Sat 6.30-10.30. A la carte. House wines from €22. Service discretionary. Closed Sun, Mon, Christmas week. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

On Western Road, opposite Jurys Hotel.