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Cafe Bar Deli @ Bewley's

Established in 1840, Bewley's Café had a special place in the affection of Irish people. Having changed hands amidst much public furore in 2005 it is great to see that it has retained much of its unique atmosphere and outstanding architectural features, notably the Harry Clarke stained windows.

Despite its obvious contemporary appeal - paper place mat menus set the tone by kicking off with Tasters, the first of which is home-made breads with three dips and marinated olives - the friendly ghosts of the old Bewleys Café are still alive and well.

Even the name is a play on what was the essence of a café in the old-fashioned sense - steaming pots of tea and milky coffee, with scones or a traditional fry; today it suggests a very different character.

Imaginative salads are packed with colourful, flavoursome treats in the modern idiom - rocket, parmesan, anchovies, baby spinach, goat's cheese, hazelnuts, chickpeas, couscous, tapenade are the vocabulary of this menu - with pizza and pasta menus continuing in the same tone. The ten or so pizzas offered include a Café Bar Deli special, changed daily, as do the pastas - and there are also family sized bowls available (serves two for about EUR25). Spelt bread and gluten/wheat free pastas are available

A sensibly limited wine list combines quality and style (sparkling and dessert wines included) with value; service is friendly and efficient and prices remarkably moderate - an attractive formula for an informal outing, and treating a family won't break the bank.

Seats 250; Air con; Children welcome; open for food daily 8am-11pm (Sun 11.30-10pm). Closed 25/6 Dec, Bank Hols. Amex, Diners, MC, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Half way down Grafton Street