Craft is chef Phil Yeung's first restaurant as owner, having been head chef at Town Bar & Grill and Bang, and it's a happy addition to the range of eating options in Dublin 6W.
A smart but low-key exterior sets the tone and the simple, comfortable furniture includes a few seats at the bar - just the setting for casual fine-dining and Craft serves lunch, dinner and brunch.
The à la carte dinner menu offers 'snacks', followed by starters, mains and desserts. Jerusalem artichoke chips come with a terrific smoked bacon mayo while crab crackers with avocado and coriander are crisp and fresh. A salad dressing made with smoked crème fraiche is inventive and delicious, and there are plenty of interesting touches: lovage pesto for instance.
Main courses marry big, rustic flavours with elegant but unfussy presentation, and ingredients are seasonal and mainly Irish.
Desserts are simple yet considered, and the cheese offering is a single Irish cheese – this may be a less obvious choice than in many restaurants, such as one of Northern Ireland newer success stories, the Young Buck 'Stichelton' blue made by Mikes Fancy Cheeses in Newtownards, Co Down.
The floor staff are excellent – professional and friendly - and, like the food (notably the early 'Neighbourhood' dinner menu), the short wine list offers value.
While billed as a neighbourhood restaurant, Phil Yeung's food is accomplished enough to draw in the punters from further afield.