This recent venture above Kiely’s pub is well worth the climb up the staircase. The latest addition to the recent wave of restaurants that have elevated Indian cuisine in Ireland to its merited height, this is a first solo venture for Saji Mathew, who is already well-known on the Dublin restaurant scene from his years with the Jaipur group.

Courteous staff are quick to welcome customers into an attractive long low-lit dining room with a feature fireplace, partially divided by filigree screens and with a mixture of comfortable banquette seating and darkwood chairs around highly polished tables with simple white settings.

Large brightly coloured drum lampshades made with sari fabric warm the neutral tones, along with floral transfers on the dark stained wooden floor, and colourful modern paintings are used sparingly on pale walls.

It’s a stylish space that feels comfortable and uncluttered, conveying the clear message that Dakshin’s offering is something special – beginning with the slick cocktail bar, which seems to bring something of Manhattan to D4.

The menu includes plenty of favourites, but the speciality is authentic cuisine from the South Indian region of Kerala, which is diverse but uses a lot of rice, lentils and spices in dishes that range from subtle sweet-sour flavours to fiery hot curry made with dried and fresh chillies.

Alongside the Tikka Masala, the Rogan Josh and the smoky Tandoor dishes, there are plenty of Keralan specialities which are named and explained – and some may already be familiar.

Biryani, for example - the well known dish of perfumed rice and lamb infused with saffron, mint & onion, and served with raita and curry - is a Kerala speciality (and here is served especially well, with an element of surprise); and Thaali is suggested as a good way to experience a complete south Indian meal selection of lamb, chicken, seafood, greens and lentils, served with rice and Dosa (spiced crispy pancake).

Led by a team of chefs whose skill lies in creating refined authentic dishes that are perfectly balanced and well seasoned, Dakshin contradicts the myth that everything spicy is a curry.

Spices are deftly combined to please the palate with fresh flavours while fragrant background hints of cinnamon, chilli, cardamom or cloves, balance and enhance the dish as a whole. Presentation is elegant, and the dining experience is enhanced by efficient service by warmly polite and helpful staff.

Many people choose to drink beer with Indian food but an extensive wine list is also offered, with many available by the glass; choices can therefore be made by the course, or dish, between the acidic wines which tend to bring out the subtler spicy flavourings, buttery whites that many people enjoy with creamy Indian sauces, and sweeter fruity wines such as gerwurtztraminer that offset fierce heat in highly spiced dishes.

Dakshin offers Indian cooking with style in smart contemporary surroundings, yet prices are reasonable for the quality, making this refined Indian regional food an accessible option for a night out.

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