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Darwins

Proprietor Michael Smith's own butchers shop supplies certified organic meats to this restaurant in an area known for its butchers but not, until recently, so much as a dining destination. But, together with a strong team, Michael has opened up a whole new area for Dublin's discerning diners.

Flavoursome cooking that pleases the eye as much as the taste buds combines sophistication with generosity, making the most of well-sourced ingredients, including excellent vegetables and delicious fish. Given Michael's background, you may expect excellent meats - especially great steaks - but it may be more of a surprise to find that vegetarians are so well looked after, and that one of the house specialities is a delicious vegetarian risotto of wild mushrooms and sun-dried tomato.

Finish with a choice of gorgeous puddings - a well-made classic lemon tart perhaps - or mature farmhouse cheeses (attractively presented plated with fresh fruit and oatcakes) and a wack of irresistible Illy coffee.

Good, reasonably priced house wines set the tone for a fair wine list - with interesting food, great service and competitive pricing too, it is no surprise that this restaurant is doing well.

Seats 50; Air conditioning; Children welcome before 7; D Mon-Sat, 5.30 to 11; Early D daily 5-7 about €19.50; also á la carte. Closed Sun, 25-26 Dec & Bank Hols. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Opposite Carmelite Church.