Located in what locals call the old Hollybrook Hotel (although it has since been home to several restaurants), this contemporary restaurant is below the comfily furnished Gilbert & Wright ‘70s retro bar and accessed via an impressively wide carpeted staircase to the right of the main bar entrance.
Proprietor-chef Brian Walsh, formerly with Dylan McGrath at his acclaimed restaurant Mint in Ranelagh, has introduced some culinary excitement to the area and – having brought the classical skills but dumped the formality (and high cost) of fine dining - quickly established a loyal fan base of diners who appreciate the cooking, the prices and good service under the direction of restaurant manager Debbie Hughes.
This Dublin restaurants (completely revamped by the current owners, with design by Kari Rocca; www.karirocca.com) an unusual shape and on two levels, with contrasting atmospheres. The upper level is very high-ceilinged on one side, giving some natural light from street-level windows; the high end wall is intriguingly decorated with a large ‘dresser’ arrangement of wooden wine crates used to showcase a quirky collection of items, with an antique chamber pot taking pride of place.
The eclectic mix of styles continues with a cocktail bar that’s faced with white brick-shaped retro tiles (Portuguese barman, Miguel, is an award-winning mixologist), and bare zinc-topped tables partnered with perspex or upholstered chairs, minimalist settings, and nightlights; the atmosphere is a little café-like in daylight, but softens as darkness falls.
Despite an occasional retro nod to industrial chic (such as wall lights featuring exposed ‘pipes’), the lower level is warmer and sleeker, with wooden-topped tables and leather upholstery – notably a sinuous banquette in soft red that runs along the back wall, curving around circular tables at either end.
Unless perhaps they have visited the website, where some supplier details are given, diners may not be aware of Brian Walsh’s commitment to using seasonal ingredients from local producers.
The only specific mention on an admirably concise menu of half a dozen starters and seven main courses, is Maurice Kettyle’s Irish dry-aged rib-eye of beef (€5 supplement on the early bird); but, in fairness, if you have to pick one you won’t do better than this Co Fermanagh supplier, who was a recent recipient of an Irish Food Writers’ Guild Food Award.
Downstairs sets out to be affordable and the system they have adopted is simple: there is no separate ‘value’ or ‘early bird’ menu but, at certain times (all evening Tue-Thu & Sun, 5.30-7 on Fri & Sat), diners can choose a 2/3 course meal from an already fairly priced à la carte at a very attractive set price.
Thus you might enjoy dressed crab with lemon mayonnaise, dill, mint, & cucumber slices (€7.95) and roast rack of lamb and crumbed shoulder with mash potato, tomato, shallot, broad beans, olives, pine nuts and sauce vierge (€20.95) for a mere €22, rising to just €26 if you fall for a dessert of, say, dark chocolate tart with berry compôte and crème patissière (€5.95).
A coeliac friendly version of the menu is available on request.
Although there may be an occasional nod too far to fashion (jelly and ice cream, served in a kilner jar, for example – bland and difficult to get at), the cooking is generally excellent, and you can have an extremely good, modestly-priced meal here. Just remember, if you’re on a tight budget, to watch the extras like bread and side dishes, which are all charged separately and can mount up quickly.
The list of 20 wines is carefully chosen to match the style and pricing of the menu, with half of them offered by the glass.
Service is prompt and helpful – and the piano gleaming in the corner of the lower level suggests there is fun to be had here too.
Seats 85. D Tue-Sat 5.30 ‘till late’, Sun 1–9. Closed Mon. MasterCard, Visa, Laser
