Enigma

In the premises formerly occupied by the long-running Sullivans, this centrally located restaurant in Holywood has new owners and smartly streamlined all-new décor, in pleasing shades of brown, cream and mushroom.

One of those very useful places with long opening hours, they do a very nice breakfast at weekends (including very good coffee and irresistible Danish pastries) and an all-day menu from 12-7pm, including a meal deal for two with wine.

Lunchtime menus offer a good choice and, although visitors expecting an almost seaside restaurant to major in fish may be disappointed as it a relatively minor role, this is covered in the main menu by the 'fish of the day’ option - which is just that as it literally features whatever the fish man brings.

Tasty examples include a goat's cheese with warm beetroot salad (the cheese just nicely melting), piri piri chicken, and local prawns in mornay sauce – but, while described as coming with asparagus spears, broccoli and greens were served instead on this occasion.

For dessert, expect to see some classics - strawberry pavlova, for example – and don’t forget that good coffee.

The value is fair and, while this is not cutting edge cooking, it doesn't make out to be.

Friendly staff are a big plus and they are doing some nice things, including jazz on the last Sunday of month, and fish of the day each evening – when good lighting brings the understated décor to life.