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The French Table

This welcome newcomer to the city is a riverside restaurant just a short distance along from the Clarion Hotel. Run by Thomas Fialon and his wife Deirdre, who is from Limerick, it is an airy and spacious place, with tones of dark wood and aubergine seating lifted by touches of crisp white linen and gleaming glassware, plus the light streaming in through the windows.

Views over the river add to the calm ambience, and welcoming staff are quick to make arriving guests feel at home.

A la carte menus are offered at both lunch an dinner and, although Thomas Fialon sounds the odd rustic notes – braised farmed rabbit in a mustard and white wine sauce, for example – he really likes to take classic French dishes and interpret them with some finesse, as in his warm tartlet of goat’s cheese with oak-smoked duck and a walnut dressing, where the pastry is as light and crisp as you could wish and the pieces of duck are dense with flavour.

Details, such as salad dressings, are exemplary. From a classic dessert selection finish, perhaps with orange flavoured craqueline, with raspberries and Chantilly cream – a very attractive dish served with an outstandingly good raspberry sorbet, clearly made in house. Excellent service too – efficient, informative and courteous.

The all-French wine list is of special interest, containing some real bargains, including a fine 1er cru Meursault for a mere €65, and a decent number of wines available by the glass.

Open in the evenings and for lunch, when the roast beef sandwich with sautéed potatoes (€9) has to be the best value meal in town.

Seats 52; children welcome (high chair); air conditioning; L Tue-Fri, 12-3pm; D Tue-Sat 6-10.30pm; a la carte L&D; house wine €25. Closed Sat L, all Sun & Mon, last 2 weeks in Jan & Jul. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

On riverbank by Dock Road, near the Clarion Hotel