Greenacres started off, predictably enough, as a greengrocers – but that was many moons ago and this lovely bistro is now part of a Greenacres complex that includes a wine shop, deli and an impressive modern art gallery.
It’s heaven for any wine buff, with nearly 2,500 thousand bottles in the wine shop, a private tasting room and a fine wine vault. You can select from their wine list or browse through the shelves, select your choice and only pay a nominal €5 corkage for a bottle to go with your meal.
Set in a pedestrian area (next to another great Wexford eating place, Roberto Pons’s La Dolce Vita), you arrive through an impressive outdoor seating area, or through the wine shop; either way the entrance is very welcoming, with courteous staff ready to greet arriving guests and show you around the deli/wine area where you can admire the wonderful cheese, hams and desserts while you browse the wines and pick your bottle if you wish.
The lovely bright restaurant is almost wrapped on three sides with wines lining the walls and, together with low French music, polished wooden tables with white linen runners, fresh flowers and candles, an atmospheric scene is set.
Breads, olives and water are served smartly by very informative but relaxed staff, while you consider the tempting dishes offered on both the menu and blackboard specials – inspired by bistro cooking, perhaps, but offering creativity and finesse not normally associated with the term.
A typical meal begins with a decidedly unbistro-like amuse-bouche (cream cheese and smoked salmon with pesto, perhaps), and then starters might include beautifully cooked baked quail en croûte (about €9.50), served with a deeply flavoured black grape coulis and thyme jus and garnished with half quail eggs; or excellent baked Dublin Bay prawns in Bayonne ham with tomato coulis and garlic butter (three large prawns served on the coulis, about. €9.90).
Equally fine main courses (around €21.50) could include less usual dishes – such as a perfectly cooked grilled veal cutlet à la provencale with ratatouille and rosemary, perhaps, or an excellent rabbit dish like civet of lapin in red wine, both coming with very good side vegetables - tasty sautéed leeks, peas and carrots, perhaps, and lovely creamy mash.
Perfectly executed classic desserts - chocolate fondant and a traditional tarte tatin (€6.95 each) are both typical - should end the meal on a high, perhaps with well made espressos (and well priced too, at €1.50 each).
Wexford is blessed with a choice of good restaurants and, with its lovely atmosphere, excellent creative cooking, outstanding wine offering, informed service and extra little treats, Greenacres Bistro is hitting a new high.
Seats 60 (outdoors, 25; private room, 60-100). Coffee Mon-Sat, 9-5pm; L & D Mon-Sat 12-3pm & D 5.30-10pm. 2/3 course early bird D €20/25 Mon-Sat 5.30-6.30pm, gourmet D €50, also a la carte. Wheelchair access (public areas & toilets); free broadband wi/fi; air conditioning. Closed Sun, 4 days Christmas. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
