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Il Primo Restaurant

This long established Italian restaurant has recently reopened with chef Anita Thoma and front of house man John Farrell now the new owners. They've spruced up the restaurant into a smart continental style, but the old fashioned warmth remains - and the giant picture window, where customers can see and be seen, is still the most striking feature.

The ever-friendly John Farrell welcomes Italianophiles into the tiny downstairs dining area, which looks through the service bar area to the kitchen. More seating is available upstairs in two other dining rooms, though downstairs is the popular choice with regulars. Il Primo specialises in rustic Italian food, matched by mostly Tuscan wines.

The wine list has long been famed and is rightly renowned, with wine imported directly from the wineries offering some unique treats as well as good prices. The menu includes some of the restaurant's old favourites, such as seafood lasagne, along with some new ones - Barolo-braised oxtail with pappardelle, for example; pasta is home-made and the effort shows in the quality. Main courses are divided into a remarkable range of risottos (you may well find the best risotto in Ireland here), creative pastas and gourmet pizza.

The many simple dishes often have a curious twist and are evidence of Anita Thoma's wide repertory of rustic Italian food. Il Primo's casually stylish atmosphere makes it a perfect venue for the casual foodie as well as those looking for a treat without formality.

Separate dining/function rooms available (30); reservations recommended at weekend; children welcome; air conditioning. Seats 80. L Mon-Sat, 12.30-3, D daily 6-11 (Sun to 10); á la carte. House wines from €25 per litre. No SC (12.5% for groups 5+). Closed L Sun. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

5 mins from Stephens Green between Harcourt Street & Wexford Street