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Il Primo Restaurant

This long established Italian restaurant changed hands in 2007, and reopened with chef Anita Thoma and front of house man John Farrell as the new owners.

They spruced up the restaurant into a smart continental style, but the old fashioned warmth remains - and the giant picture window, where customers can see and be seen, is still the most striking feature.

The ever-friendly John Farrell welcomes Italianophiles into the tiny downstairs dining area, which looks through the service bar area to the kitchen. More seating is available upstairs in two other dining rooms, though downstairs is the popular choice with regulars.

Il Primo specialises in rustic Italian food, matched by mostly Tuscan wines. The wine list has long been famed and is rightly renowned, with wine imported directly from the wineries offering some unique treats as well as good prices.

The menu includes some of the restaurant's old favourites, such as seafood lasagne, along with some new ones - Barolo-braised oxtail with pappardelle, for example; pasta is home-made and the effort shows in the quality. Main courses are divided into a remarkable range of risottos (you may well find the best risotto in Ireland here - try the creamy smoked haddock & chive), creative pasta dishes (crab & leek lasagne, perhaps) and gourmet pizza.

The many simple dishes often have a curious twist and are evidence of Anita Thoma's wide repertory of rustic Italian food.

Il Primo's informally stylish atmosphere makes it a perfect venue for the casual foodie as well as those looking for a treat without formality.

Just into their second year of operation under the new régime at the time of going to press, this restaurant has established itself as a firm favourite with the growing numbers who appreciate simple, stylish, quality ingredients-led cooking.

Seats 80 (private room, 35); reservations recommended at weekend; children welcome; air conditioning. L Mon-Sat, 12.30-3, D Mon-Sat 6-11; á la carte. House wines from €19. SC 12.5% for groups 5+. Closed Sun, Bank Hols. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

5 mins from Stephens Green between Harcourt Street & Wexford Street