Kennedy’s Food Store on Fairview Strand is a success on many levels. Deli, bakery, takeaway, daytime café and evening bistro, this attractive place has many faces; the common denominator is their home cooked food for sale, and to eat in.
The bustling ground floor café serves up a quality cooked breakfast, good coffee and delicious home-baked treats all morning and, despite facing a busy road, the little outdoor terrace is a favourite spot for local coffee breaks.
Lunchtime offers creative salads, sandwiches on Bretzel Bakery bread and hot specials that saw demand for an evening menu.
In response, Kennedy’s Bistro opened upstairs, filling a long narrow space that has been cleverly styled to make it comfortable and bright. Pale grey walls, bare wood tables, cool tunes and a little bar create a sophisticated vibe that’s very pleasant, if slightly at odds with the home-style cooking.
Starters are large enough to share and might include stuffed potato skins, homemade pate or bruschetta piled high with delicious wild mushrooms in creamy mascarpone. Each night a keenly priced dinner special (about €8.50) changes and can be enjoyed with a glass of wine for around €10.
The menu has plenty of other good value choices too, from favourites like braised lamb shank and organic bangers and mash to seared tuna with lovely light accompaniments.
At its best the cooking is accomplished but it can be uneven and, in the Guide’s experience, some dishes might benefit from revisiting to bring them all to the same high standard.
Desserts are a highlight – just as good as the home baked cakes on offer during the day, with the toasted hazelnut tart one of the most perfect desserts you’re likely to have the pleasure of eating.
Although staff may seem rather keen to close up if it’s a quiet night, the service is friendly and warm overall. Frequently replenished water bottles are a nice touch and help keep the bill down, although the short but well-chosen wine list offers some very good value.
Bistro open D Tue-Sat 6-11.30pm (last orders 9.30pm). Shop open all day, daily.
