On an elevated site with views towards Carrick on Suir and to the Comeragh mountains, this pretty white cottage with its red half door enjoys a lovely rural setting and, with two stone-faced outhouses and a small cottage, it’s a pleasing property with ample outside seating for al fresco dining when the weather allows.
Chef-proprietor Michael Mee is well known in the South-East – he moved here from Kilkenny in 2007 and quickly built up a following of diners who enjoy the location and the ambience, as well as Michael’s good food.
There’s a lot of pine, some modern paintings and light instrumental music playing in the background; an open door behind the reception area allows views into the kitchen where arriving guests see Michael at work preparing their meal, and in the restaurant, tables are set up classically with white linen.
A friendly local waitress quickly brings iced water and warm breads along with a carefully balanced menu, which manages to offer the wide choice that is essential in a rural restaurant while also allowing for specialisation - in this case fresh fish and seafood, which accounts for about half of the à la carte and a third of the shorter early bird and Sunday lunch menus.
The à la carte offers a soup and half a dozen starters (€5-€13) and seven main courses, including a vegetarian option (€17.50-€28); begin, perhaps, with a pretty three fish terrine of salmon, sole and monkfish, served a tomato & tarragon jus, or roast hand-dived scallops from Kilmore Quay, with mixed leaves, crispy bacon and caesar dressing - or a classic duck liver parfait studded with green peppercorn and served in the traditional way with orange flavoured Cumberland sauce and toast.
Roast rack of Tipperary lamb and dry-aged sirloin are popular main courses, but fish dishes like roast fillet of monkfish with parma ham, tomato pesto and white wine cream - or even whole black sole with capers & lemon butter, if you’re lucky - are very appealing, and many would travel here especially to enjoy the fresh fish and seafood.
Michael Mee is a good chef and his well sourced local ingredients produce fine dishes that are smartly presented on modern white plates, and his classic desserts with a twist end an enjoyable meal well. Value is good, and a short but adequate wine list is also offered. The Sunday lunch menu offers outstanding value.
Despite the out-of-the way location, this is a popular restaurant and booking is advised.
Seats 50 (outdoors, 14); D Wed-Sun, 6-9.30pm (to 8pm Sun); L Sun only 12.30-3.30pm. Set Sun L €22.50; 2/3 course early bird D €24/28, 6-7.30pm (Sat at 5.30pm only); also a la carte D. House wine from €19. Children welcome before 7.30pm (high chair); reservations recommended; ample car parking. Closed Mon, Tue, Bank Hols, 24/25/26 Dec. Amex, Diners, Mastercard, Visa, Laser
