La Maison is on the small street that joins Powerscourt Townhouse to George’s Arcade.
Previously known as La Maison des Gourmets, this Dublin restaurants name may have shrunk but the smart front looks just as Gallic with outdoor tables and a cheery blue canopy as well as an expanded quality bistro menu.
The dining room has a simple, regional French bistro look with bentwood chairs and old French adverts on the walls, which act as an unstuffy backdrop to Chef Olivier Quenet's smart Gallic cooking, with a light touch.
The menu changes seasonally but has included unusual and superb capriccio de langoustines as well as a clever plateau de paté du jour, which is offered from a trolley, so you can taste rough paté de campagne, slightly less chunky rillettes and some silky smooth chicken liver paté, all served with cornichon, pearl onions and lightly toasted sourdough.
Main courses might include lamb shank with pomme boulangère, rich, sweet and fulsome flavours with caramelised onions and homely spuds. If fish is offered en croûte it often comes on a trivet of vegetables or better still
fennel ratatouille. This must not be missed, the seabass version is a haunting culinary experience.
Desserts are simple classics such as tarte fine aux pommes and fruit gratins, all equally accomplished.
La Maison is a real foodie experience at up-to-the minute prices. Not just worth a visit but a detour too.
Seats 60 (outdoors, 10), children welcome before 9pm, free broadband wi/fi. Open L & D Mon-Fri 12-3pm & 6-10pm (to 11pm Thu/Fri) & all day Sat 12-11pm. Average starter €7.50, average main course €17.50, average dessert €6.50, bottle house wine €23, glass €5.50. SC 12.5% on groups 6+. Closed Sunday. MasterCard, Visa and Laser.
