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La Riva

LA RIVA HAS CLOSED DOWN AS OF JUNE 2007

Warren Gillen's first floor restaurant is approached up rather steep stairs, creating a wonderful contrast as you emerge into a bright room which overlooks the quay and twinkling lights along the shore - and is imbued with that indefinably warm atmosphere of happy people dining.

And those with their backs to the harbour get compensation a-plenty: as the complementary view is of Warren and his team at work in the kitchen, creating delicious things for you to enjoy. Welcoming staff show arriving guest to smartly appointed tables, and the opening details - really delicious breads and a complimentary amuse-bouche - are very impressive. Warren's aim is 'to serve non-pretentious seasonal food, that allows the best local ingredients to shine' and this he does very well, as some of the finest food in the south-east is to be found here: menus are quietly impressive; without resorting to long or flowery descriptions, titles like Kilmore crab risotto with chilli, ginger, mango & coriander, or fried Croghan Farm goats cheese, with salad of roast peppers & red onion are extremely appealing - and they consistently follow through on the plate, in memorable dishes which are beautifully balanced in presentation, flavour and texture.

Given the location, seafood is hard to resist but local meats are well represented too - pan-fried pure Angus sirloin, for example, with a caramelised onion & Wicklow Blue fondue, red wine, black pepper & clove syrup; vegetarian dishes are creative enough to have mainstream appeal, and you can finish off what is sure to be a memorable meal with a lovely dessert, such as a warm chocolate & pistachio brownie with Baileys custard & buttermilk granita: simply superb.

Well-trained, attentive staff complement the creative cooking - the wonder is how they can produce such outstanding food in a kitchen of this size; however, the success of this great little restaurant means that there are plans to extend it soon.

A short wine list is expanded by a page of monthly specials and a page of bin ends; the two-course early dinner menu offers exceptional value.

Seats 45; Air conditioning. Not suitable for children after 8pm. D, Mon-Sat, 6-10 (to 10.30 Fri/Sat). Open Sun of Bank Hols only. Early D €24 (6-7 Mon-Fri). Set D, 2/3 courses €33/37; also á la carte. House wine from €19.70; sc discretionary. Closed Sun (except on Bank Hol weekends), last week of Feb. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Opposite Commodore Barry Statue