The décor may stray into traditional pub territory but the food at Le Bon Crubeen is very much brasserie fare. With its mix of bar stools, comfy booths, engraved glass panels, leather armchairs and parquet and tiled floors, it’s a well-lit space with plenty of room between the tables.
A long bar dominates the space making it a decidedly casual dining room and its location, close to theatres and on the Luas line serving the O2 at The Point, makes the early dinner menu especially attractive.
The chef, Errol Defoe, came here from the well-loved south Dublin restaurant Bijou and, before that, spent time in the illustrious London kitchens of Tom Aikens, and the menu reflects his solid training.
A starter of cauliflower and truffle risotto or main like dry aged beef fillet with duck fat chips, green beans and excellent Béarnaise sauce highlight a good understanding of the classics and the menu features a great choice. Ingredients may include slow cooked pork belly, scallops, goat’s cheese, duck, Atlantic salmon (beetroot cured, perhaps) and Kerry Hill Lamb, ensuring something for every taste.
With many of the main courses averaging €15-16 you’ll be astonished at the value on offer and the level of care taken in the kitchen. This Dublin Restaruants menus include vegetarian and coeliac (gluten free) dishes, also some welcome healthy options, such as low-calorie lunch special. A statement notes that all beef is of Irish origin, but there is very little other information on provenance - the quality is not in doubt, but it would be interesting to know more about the sourcing.
The wine list is carefully chosen to offer quality with value –scarcely a bottle tops the €35 mark and it features 16 wines by the glass from an interesting selection of regions. Favourites like crème brulée and sticky toffee pudding feature on the dessert menu, and these are made with real flair.
Best of all, portions are generous and manager Chris Weir’s team of staff are courteous, ensuring that you’ll leave Le Bon Crubeen as a satisfied customer – and one who will soon want to return, as they’re probably offering the best value in town.
Seats 75. L Mon-Sat, 12-3; early D Mon-Fri from 4pm (tables required by 7.30); brasserie menu daily 5-9.30 (Sun to 9). 2/3 course early D €21.95/24.95, also à la carte. House wine €21. Amex, Mastercard, Visa, Laser.
