This great little spot is above the well-known The Sky & The Ground pub at the southern end of the main street in Wexford town: once you have climbed the stairs in the pub, you enter a small corner of France.
The light airy space has attractively quirky décor (nice use of wooden French chateau wine boxes at the bar), and the welcome is prompt and friendly. The style is uncluttered – white-clothed tables have simple, quality settings and high-backed leather chairs - and the menu, while written in a very straightforward style, suggests sophistication in the kitchen.
Service is discreetly efficient and knowledgeable - if required Maitre d', Arnaud Clement, will take you through the classic and modern French menu which, true to Euro-Toques proprietor-chef Kevin Carley’s commitment to locally sourced ingredients, is based mainly on quality Irish food and highlights special Wexford treats in season, like mussels, scallops, lamb, beef and soft fruits.
Choices include plenty of familiar dishes, but also some less often seen (wild boar terrine, perhaps, or a whole baked camembert to share) and, not only are dishes marked up as suitable for vegetarians and coeliacs, where appropriate, but every item on the menu comes with a wine suggestion - all available by the glass and fairly priced.
It’s not an easy menu to choose from, with each dish seeming more enticing than the last; a starter of seared paprika smoked scallops with lambs lettuce and cucumber, for example, vies with an unusual home rolled black pudding stuffed with Toulouse sausage and green peppercorn sauce (in the event both prove equally excellent).
Main course options, which include a couple of appealing vegetarian dishes, perhaps surprisingly also include tiger prawns and barramundi among the more local fish choices (a lot of food miles), but all the beef, lamb and chicken served is Irish - traditional fillet of beef Rossini (with foie gras and burgundy jus), perhaps or noisettes of lamb with seared lamb kidney, fondant potatoes and a blue cheese cream sauce.
But do keep room for a dessert - a perfectly cooked lemon and lime soufflé, perhaps - or a French cheese plate. Very good coffee to finish. Arnaud Clement’s thoughtfully selected wine list naturally leans towards France, and all wines are carefully chosen to complement the French dishes.
Prices are fair for the high quality offered and, in addition to the à la carte, a short (but very good) five-course French bistro menu is offered. At just €23.95 it represents exceptional value for money and is available on mid-week nights, from Sunday to Thursday inclusive, and as an early dinner (6pm-7pm) on Friday and Saturday; to ensure even service, everyone at the table must order this option.
Seats 55. Reservations are essential, especially in summer. D daily, 6-9 (to 10pm Fri/Sat). Set 5-course D €25.95 (whole tables only; available 6-9pm Sun-Thu, and 6-7pm Fri & Sat); also à la carte. Children welcome, before 8pm. Closed 23-27 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
