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Les Frères Jacques

Although the number of French restaurants/bistros in Dublin has grown a lot of late, Les Frères Jacques - which opened beside the Olympia Theatre in 1986, well before the development of Temple Bar made the area fashionable - has retained its special place as one of the very few offering genuine French fine dining.

Most of this Dublin restaurants staff are French, the atmosphere is French - and the cooking is classic French. But best of all, they do it with a light touch that Irish diners especially appreciate.

The decor is soothing - all the better to enjoy seasonal menus that are wide-ranging and well-balanced but - as expected when you notice the lobster tank on entering - there is a strong emphasis on fish and seafood; game also features in season, although there will always be prime meats and poultry, and vegetarians will also be offered imaginative options.

Lunch at Les Frères Jacques is a treat (and good value) but dinner is a feast.

The à la carte offers classics such as west coast oysters (native or rock) and grilled lobster, individually priced, and probably game in season.

Finish with cheeses (perhaps including some Irish ones) or a classic dessert like warm thin apple tart (baked to order), with cinnamon ice cream and crème anglaise.

The wine list, which naturally favours France, makes interesting reading - and reductions of as much as 50% per bottle are often offered on Mondays and Tuesday.

Seats 65 (private room, 40); reservation recommended; children welcome. L Mon-Fri, 12-2; D Mon-Sat, 7-10.30. Set 2/3 course L €18/23; Set 4 course D €39; also á la carte. House wine €22. SC 12.5%. Pianist on Fri/Sat nights. Closed L Sat, all Sun, 24 Dec-3 Jan. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser

Directions:

Next to Olympia Theatre.