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MacNean House & Restaurant

The prospect of a meal at Neven and Amelda Maguire's renowned County Cavan establishment has long brought devotees from all over Ireland, and beyond - and the recent transformation from a modest restaurant with rooms to a spacious place of understated elegance has brought it up to the international standards that Neven's exceptional cooking deserves, so he is hotly tipped for the level of recognition that has until now been reserved for Dublin and Belfast.

Despite the demands outside his kitchen (and there are many, as he is invariably generous with his time when the cause is deserving), Neven shows no sign of being distracted and his cooking continues to astonish and delight: perfectly judged food, that makes the most of meticulously locally sourced ingredients (proudly credited on the menu), is invariably an experience to treasure.

Menus include a 9-course Menu Prestige (with fish and vegetarian variations available), a great value Dinner Menu, and a famously keenly-priced Sunday lunch menu, which makes MacNean House unusually accessible for a fine dining restaurant.

There is a small bar which, together with elegant high-backed chairs, immaculate linen and restrained creamy white crockery, all create the right ambience for full enjoyment of Neven's exquisite food.

Main dishes are interspersed with all the treats that are part of the dining experience in the grandest restaurants - meals begin with a gorgeous assortment of yeast breads and dipping oil, and there will also be pre-starters, pre-desserts and superb petits fours.

Of the growing number of specialities, a rare breed pork plate (sautéed fillet, sausage, smoked & caramelised belly wand black pudding) is an outstanding example and desserts have always been a particular passion for Neven, so it's a must to leave room for one of his skilfully crafted confections.

This is outstanding cooking, served with charm, and it offers exceptionally good value.

An accessible wine list leans towards France and includes a dozen house wines (all €25), and eight half bottles.

As we have said many a time, genuine enthusiasm for good food combined with exceptional creativity, skill and hospitality mark this restaurant out as nothing short of a national treasure.

Accommodation:

The rooms offer accommodation to match the restaurant. Restrained, thoughtfully furnished and very comfortable, they make this the short break destination par excellence - the only problem here is getting a booking, especially at weekends, so take a midweek break if you can.

MacNean House : Seats 50. D Thu-Sun (Wed-Sun in high season) 6.30-9.30pm (7-8.30pm Sun); L Sun only, two sittings, 12.30 & 3.30; set 4 course Sun L €35; Gourmet D €70; vegetarian menu €45. House Wine from €25. SC 10% on food. Accommodation: Rooms 10 (all en-suite and no smoking), €70 pps; ss €10; tea/coffee tray & TV in rooms. Children welcome (under 5s free in parents' room, cot available free of charge). Restaurant closed Mon, Tue (& Wed off season); Establishment closed 1 Jan - 8 Feb. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

On N17, main Belfast-Sligo road.