Marco Pierre White is not the first celebrity chef to have brought his successful branding to bear on a Dawson Street institution, but he may well prove to be the most tenacious.
Fitzers, his partners in this Dublin restaurants venture, combine expertise in catering to the crowds at such large-scale venues as Croke Park with decades of maintaining an air of glamour at their Dawson Street flagship.
It might surprise the great man to hear know how many loyal customers are dismayed by the disappearance of their old haunt, Fitzers, but the celebrity name above the door has pumped up the glamour quotient, helped in no small part by dark moody lighting and rows of very beautiful people staring down from the gorgeously shot black and white photographs which line the walls between leather banquettes and bevelled mirrors.
Little individual lamps on each linen-lined table add to the Speakeasy ambience, as do the unusually late opening hours.
Those expecting fine dining will be disappointed but, although not notable for finesse, the menu honestly follows the lead suggested by the name, offering several cuts of steak at reasonable prices with a choice of classic sauces.
Come early for the value menu (one/two/three courses for €14.95/€19.95/ €24.95 before 6.45pm Mon-Fri or 5pm Sat & Sun) or arrive late when the prospect of a supper of oysters and steak will seem especially decadent.
There are some good options to be found on the winelist, as well as several choices by the glass (including a choice of dry sherries).