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The Oarsman Bar & Café

This attractive and characterful pub is run by brothers Conor and Ronan Maher, sons of Tom and Rosaleen Maher (see entry for Hollywell), and it will be very clear to anyone who visits that they've inherited "the hotelier's gene": everything is invariably spick-and-span, very welcoming and efficiently run, even at the busiest times.

The bar - which is very pleasantly set up in a solidly traditional style with two fires, comfortable seating arrangements for eating the excellent bar meals, and occasional contemporary tastes in the decor - leads off towards a sheltered patio at the back, which makes a spot for a sunny day (and a fully fledged beer garden was due for completion at the time of going to press).

Conor and Ronan's sister, Claire, re-joined the team in 2006, and various plans afoot currently include extending the opening hours for bar food, to become more of a gastro-pub. Meanwhile, a strong kitchen team led by Lee Mastin produce consistently excellent food, offered on appealing lunchtime bar menus and more extensive á la carte evening menus offered upstairs.

Here you might have a great meal beginning with seared Kilkeel scallops with chorizo sausage, cauliflower purée and tomato & oregano vinaigrette, followed by any one of half a dozen terrific main courses, say rack of Paddy Sheridan's lamb with minted sweet potato, braised celery & rhubarb relish.

And, desserts have always been a speciality here, so don't forget to save a space for a wonderful ending.

This is one of the country's most pleasant pubs and it just goes on getting better - definitely worth a detour.

Free Broadband/WIFI. L & D Tue-Sat 12-3.30 and 6.45-9.45. A la carte. House wine from about €17. Not suitable for children after 9pm. Bar closed 25 Dec, Good Fri. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Town centre: coming from Dublin direction, turn right just before the bridge.