Breton chef Olivier Quenet had been pleasing legions of foodies in Dublin for 14 years.
From his authentic French boulangerie and café, La Maison des Gourmets, to its present incarnation as chic brasserie, La Maison (as well as stints above Vaughans in Terenure and O’Brien’s in Dublin 4) he’s now added a new establishment to his CV.
Quenet now has the food and beverage lease at the pretty little Schoolhouse Hotel, where he serves honest pub food in the popular bar as well as exquisite fine dining in the elegant dining room.
Having spent much of his career in Michelin-starred restaurants, including Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, it’s clear that Quenet’s passion lies in fine dining.
Impeccably sourced ingredients star in every dish, with provenance proudly declared on the menu demonstrating the commitment and passion at play in the kitchen. Afforded real respect in his hands each dish trumps the next with finesse, innovation and flavour.
High notes are there from the outset with, for example, carpaccio of Dublin Bay prawns (from Skerries) which comes lightly dressed with fruity olive oil, flakes of sea salt and tiny beads of intense caviar to create a sublime signature starter.
Mains might include seared scallops from the boat of John O’Donnell in Balbriggan, pan seared fillet of venison from Finnbrogue farm, organic vegetables from the garden of Paddy Wilde near Ardgillan Castle and organic Saddleback pork from James Mulhall, Carlow.
Each dish is perfectly balanced with beautiful flavours, expertly handled components and gorgeous presentation. There’s an excellent wine list too, with 85 carefully chosen bottles to complement the food; many come from France and are affordably priced.
As one would expect from a man whose bakery supplies pastries to several of Dublin’s top hotels, desserts are equally impressive here. In fact, Quenet’s menus are so seductive that the 8-course tasting menu (available at dinner) – a well priced €60 – is a great way to experience the brilliance and talent on offer here.
With just 9 generously proportioned tables the dining room is quiet and elegant, with a beautiful vaulted and beamed ceiling, large feature fireplace, cosy woodwork and comfy seats. Starched white linen, sparkling glasses and charming staff all add to the feeling of dining somewhere special.
Service is overseen by the ebullient Martin Meade, who spent many years at the K Club, and, most recently the Dylan hotel.
A genial host, he was twice crowned World Irish Coffee Champion and his theatrical tableside performances make a silky Irish coffee the perfect way to end off a show-stopping dining experience.
