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Oscars Bistro Galway

Located a short distance from the hectic bustle of the main beat, Oscars is endearingly eccentric and delivers far more than you might expect from the restrained exterior; an interior that is reminiscent of a theatre setting - from several different plays at once: the ceiling is luxuriantly draped like an Arabian tent, dark comfortable furniture could depict a gentlemen’s club, the low level lighting a boudoir set for seduction and the music is gentle jazz supplemented by the chatter and buzz of happy customers.

This Galway restaurants service is efficient yet friendly and knowledgeable. But it’s the menu and cooking that is the real star of Oscars. Closer to art cinema than mainstream Hollywood, Michael O Meara is creative, technically skilled and clearly not a chef who likes to be tied down to one food culture, style of cooking, or presentation.

It’s a wide ranging menu and you’ll be spoilt for choice: whether your fancy takes you to choose modern Irish dishes, classic French, Eastern, or even Pacific rim, you’ll find he’s a serious cook who produces accurately cooked food and great flavour combinations.

On a recent visit the Guide enjoyed saddle of rabbit with a mousseline of guinea fowl and pistachio, roast parsnips, potato griddle cake and apricot and brandy jus; guinea fowl, with thyme infused roast sweet potatoes, seasonal greens accompanied by red wine and caramelised Dublin bay Prawns marinated in garlic and chilli with a Malaysian vegetable selection in coconut, lemon and chilli sauce with Thai Jasmine rice; and traditional lambs kidneys with mustard and peppercorn sauce, mushrooms, leeks and colcannon.

Other memorable dishes included boyzenberry sorbet, varied and gorgeous salads and rhubarb meringues. Portions are generous and everything is cooked to order.

The wine list is extensive, strong on European wines and with a well chosen New World selection.

Seats 45. D Mon-Fri, 7-9.45pm (from 6pm Sat). D á la carte. House wines from about €19.50. Closed Sun (except Bank Hol weekends when they close Mon instead). MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

2 minutes across bridge from Jurys.