Mairead and Robert Gill’s popular restaurant in Nenagh lies behind an elegant grey-green frontage, you’ll find a smart but comfortable wine bar where a Tapas menu is served downstairs and a fine contemporary restaurant on the first floor.
A giant crystal chandelier lights the wide atrium beside the stairs; elsewhere in the elegantly appointed soft brown and cream restaurant, lighting is discreet and soothing. With a mixture of banquette seating and upholstered chairs, a vase of fresh flowers on each bare-topped table and light modern jazz playing softly in the background, the scene is set for an enjoyable evening.
Excellent breads arrive with a slab of fresh butter on a glass plate, and tap water is brought to the table in bottles.
Refreshingly straightforward menus offer about eight choices on each course; there are world influences, but there’s a welcome leaning towards Irish themes and, although this is definitely meat country there’s an emphasis on fish, delivered daily from Union Hall in Co Cork – the tasty and accurately cooked fish dishes offered might typically include roast cod with a potato crust, and halibut with couscous and a lime crème fraiche.
Meat and poultry choices might include chicken in a creamy cider sauce, served on apple mash with Clonakilty black pudding and caramelised apples; new season lamb shank comes with colcannon mash & red wine jus; and Irish Hereford fillet beef has an Irish whiskey and mushroom cream sauce; vegetables, served separately, are also good (and more varied than most Irish restaurants).
Gorgeous puddings are another highlight, including home-made ice cream, strawberry cheesecake, or vanilla pannacotta served with balsamic raspberries.
A well chosen wine list is reasonably priced and includes wines by the glass.
With interesting, well-sourced food, good cooking and combining value with a sense of occasion, it’s no wonder The Peppermill is so popular.
Seats 75 (private room, 50; outdoors, 10); D Tue-Sun, 5-10 (Sat/Sun 4-10). Value menu €29 Tue-Thu 5-10pm. House wine €19.50. Children welcome (high chair); reservations recommended; air conditioning; toilets wheelchair accessible. Closed Mon, 24-26 Dec & Good Fri. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser
