Thankfully, at least the heart of this renowned pub seems to be resistant to change. It's one of those lovely places with a grocery at the front and an unspoilt hard-floored pub with an open fire at the back.
Visitors returning after a long absence will find the characterful (but always immaculately clean) old toilets in the yard gone for ever, the yard itself virtually filled in and an L-shape of extensive new bar areas built beside the shop and along the far side of the yard - which all sounds rather worse than it is, as (with the exception of the outdoor seating) no area is very big and the new bars have been designed quite thoughtfully, with an air of respect for this fine old pub.
While the food is not as simple as it used to be, the speciality is still Carlingford oysters - with a pint of stout of course.
Not the place to be on a busy weekend, perhaps, but still a destination for quieter times.
Live music: traditional on Thursday nights, jazz on Sunday afternoons. Closed 25 Dec & Good Fri.