At the town end of the promenade in Portstewart, in a corner premises directly opposite the new Boots pharmacy and with glimpses of the sea from window tables, Neil and Louise Gibson’s restaurant is a little gem.
The couple both have over 15 years experience in hospitality and, even if you didn’t know that Neil was formerly sous chef at Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, it wouldn’t take long to work out that there’s something special going on here.
The room – which is not large but helped by the corner position, bringing in light on two sides – is immaculate, its smart black and white décor lifted by occasional flashes of deep red in flowers and lamps; artwork on the walls is for sale, so the mood will change along with the exhibitions. Louise is an excellent host and no time is lost getting guests comfortably seated with the menu, a drink and some of Neil’s gorgeous bread to nibble.
Simple, confident menus make you want to try everything – autumn starters include a warm salad of Silver Hill duckling with roasted wild mushrooms, orange & hazelnut dressing, for example, and you’ll also find that elusive speciality, Lough Neagh smoked eel, served with a beetroot, celeriac and horseradish remoulade.
Subtle, well-made soups have excellent flavour and texture – highly recommended. Main courses are likely to include braised pork cheeks (marinated in cider and braised in honey and cloves), a speciality which features among the dishes offered in the special midweek menu, and there may also be Downpatrick venison – flavoured with Szechuan pepper, perhaps, and served with pickled pearl onions and a cassis jus – and at least one imaginative vegetarian dish.
Desserts include mulled poached pear with an Irish oatmeal biscuit (from Ditty’s, down the road at Castledawson), cheeses come with local Causeway chutney and well-made coffee served with chocolate truffles rounds off a good meal to perfection.
There is nothing showy about the cooking, which is sophisticated and very well judged – attractively presented, but with the main emphasis firmly on flavour and texture – and complemented by professional service and a carefully chosen wine list, which includes some half bottles, several bubblies and an interesting Australian dessert wine, Trenthan Estate Noble Tramnga 2003. Well worth a detour.
Seats 34 (Max table size 6). D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30 & Sun 5-8pm. A la carte; early D 6-7pm, £39 per couple incl wine. House wines £14. SC 10% on groups 6+. Not suitable for children under 7. Closed Mon, 24-26 Dec, 1 Jan. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
