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Radisson SAS Farnham Estate Hotel Cavan

A winding driveway through lush parkland and a maturing golf course brings you to the dramatic entrance of Farnham Estate Hotel: the reception is in a giant glass atrium linking the classical building dating from 1810 to the striking 21st century extension impressive by any standards although, after set-down, residents are asked to park several hundred metres from the entrance and use a courtesy bus which, while it leaves the front of the house clear of parking, may be less than amusing in bad weather.

While not universally admired, most visitors see the hotel as an inspired marriage of the ancient and modern, and it has a warm, friendly atmosphere. There are three stunning drawing rooms in the house itself, and The Wine Goose Cellar Bar is atmospherically situated underground, in tunnels.

The old house also has eight suites which have been cleverly restored with a sensitive eye to the past and some real modern flair: traditional fabrics cover exotic seats and old-fashioned shapes are given quirky colours and patterns, an idea which has been overdone in Ireland recently, but this is an early example and it was achieved with a sure eye and quality materials.

Rooms in the extension are sleek, modern and comfortable with walk-in showers and bath tubs, and all rooms have wireless high-speed internet access, robes, irons, hairdryer, mini bar, coffee making facilities, simple heat control and complicated interactive flat screen TV & radio.

The 1,250 acre estate has a private lake for fishing, seven kilometres of walks and a partially constructed 18-hole golf course (due to be open in mid-2008). The health spa offers nineteen treatment rooms, a thermal suite, a relaxation room, an indoor-outdoor infinity pool and its own restaurant.

This is an appealing venue for business, conferences and weddings - The Redwood Suite, which has ten meeting rooms, can take up to 380 delegates theatre-style or seat 220 for a function.

Conferences/Banqueting (380/220); business centre, secretarial services, video conferencing; free broadband wi/fi; laptop-sized safes in bedrooms. Archery, croquet, clay pigeon shooting, coarse fishing, equestrian nearby, golf (18), fitness room, swimming pool, sauna, steam room, spa (treatment rooms, hair dressing), meditation. Heli Pad.

Rooms 158 (8 suites in the old house, 4 new suites, 120 no smoking, 50 ground floor, 8 for disabled.) Children welcome (under 17s free in parents' room, cots available free of charge, baby sitting arranged). Lifts; 24 hr room service; no pets. B&B €100-120pps, ss €95.

Botanica Restaurant

Beside the Botanica Bar on the upper level of the impressive lobby/atrium area, smart casual is the tone in this spacious dining room overlooking the lawns around the old house.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all served here and in its evening guise it's the most sophisticated of several enjoyable dining experiences offered at the hotel, all of which, including The Pear Tree Restaurant at the Health Spa, have botanical themes inspired by the estate's abundant plant life.

A private dining area, The Lemon Tree, is ideal for groups of up to 35 in the Botanica Restaurant, and there's another private dining area called The Potting Shed located within the kitchen itself, where a small party of a dozen or so can watch the chefs and be part of the action.

Menus offer many of the old favourites like steak and crispy duckling, albeit dressed up for dinner, and also a sprinkling of less usual choices an organic barley & vegetable broth, for example, or saddle of rabbit with cepes. While sophisticated the cooking is not unduly complicated, and flavoursome food and friendly staff make for an enjoyable dining experience.

A well-balanced wine list offers half a dozen house wines, a similar number of half bottles, a pair of each of organic and de-alcoholised wines, and plenty to choose from under €30.

Seats 180 (private room, 40); Children welcome; L served daily 12.30-3, D served daily 7-9.30. Set L €35, Gourmet D about €55, D also á la carte. House wine €22. Open all year. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

From Dublin, N3 to Cavan town, then take the Killeshandra Road for 3km to the gates of the estate. The hotel is a 1.7km drive from the gates.