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The Red Door Restaurant & Bar

Formerly the celebrated Restaurant St John’s, this beautifully located restaurant on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly re-opened under new management early in 2009.

Although the building and setting will be familiar to returning diners – and fans will be glad to find that the little old-fashioned bar at the side, and its open fire, are still there - the new owners have done a major interior revamp and landscaped the gardens. And, of course, there is a welcoming red door.

With bay windows everywhere and bevelled glass doors, the building is bright and the rooms have interesting shapes (also open fires, although all are gas except for the bar); each room is named according to the décor or character – The Willow Room, The Violet Room, The View, The Red Room - and there’s a covered refuge for smokers.

A few well chosen pieces of antique furniture, shutters and thick walls, plus many old photos with local relevance add to an old world feel, while the skilful use of lighting, especially candles, and lots of glass add glamour. The Violet Room is the main dining area, with doors opening into The Willow Room to make one large, atmospheric dining space.

Welcoming, smartly black-uniformed staff are quick to offer menus, tables are set formally with quality cutlery, lovely glasses and linen napkins and an ornate tealight holder – all combining to make arriving guests feel confident of an enjoyable meal ahead.

Chef Enda McDonagh brings experience in some fine kitchens, including Ashford Castle and Newport House, but don’t expect his menus to be too high-fallutin’ – this is a restaurant for everyone, with popular dishes like potato skins, tiger prawns, Caesar salad and stuffed mushrooms featuring among the ten starters alongside the less usual roast quail and a house speciality of seared king scallops with Clonakilty black pudding and mango & white truffle rouille.

And, although there will be some surprises among the several fish dishes and three imaginative vegetarian options, the 14 main courses also list ever-popular steaks (dry-aged sirloin and fillet), a homemade burger and a couple of chicken dishes including chicken tagliatelle.

The cooking is quite hearty and the pricing – around €5.50-8.50 for starters and €13.50-€25 for mains – seems fair; one side order is included in the price, extras are €4 each. But, bearing the generous portions in mind, don’t forget to save some room for dessert - it could well be the highlight of your meal.

Chocolate marquise is very good and duly decadent, but the apple crumble with crème anglaise and vanilla ice comes especially recommended – sounds simple enough, but it’s the star turn. Made to order in a delicate pate sablé case baked blind and egg-washed, it is filled with soft but chunky apple and sultanas, with a hint of cinnamon and baked topped with a crumble made with brown sugar and walnuts. Now that’s finesse.

All round, a meal here should be a very enjoyable outing - it’s a beautiful place, the food is pleasing and, under the direction of Restaurant Manager Frances Doherty, the lovely staff are efficient, and very attentive.

There’s a cocktail menu, and an ambitious wine list is arranged in three categories – young, more full bodied and ‘aged and rareties’, the latter naturally quite pricey.

[*Upstairs, four guestrooms were being renovated at the time of the Guide’s visit – inquire for further details.]

The Red Door Restaurant & BAr : Seats 80 (Private room 20, outdoor dining 25.) D Thu-Sun 6-9.30 (Sun from 5.30) L Sun only 12.30-4. A La carte. House wine €19.50. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser, Switch.

Directions:

In Fahan village, on sea side of R238 Derry/Buncrana road.