Rigbys

A café and New York style deli by day Rigby’s turns into a maverick no menu restaurant three nights a week - although it certainly looks more like a café, with deli counter and dangling pots visible from the road.

Diners squeeze into the long, narrow space where friendly staff explain the quirky formula; two starters and two main courses, one of each will be fish, one of each meat. That’s all the information you’ll be privy to, so come expecting the unexpected. The dishes change daily, and are devised around the day’s best produce as decided by chef-proprietor James Rigby.

Rigby is a gregarious, hospitable character with a fine dining background who clearly prefers this less formal setting for his cooking. Surprise dishes might include cured salmon with capers and Caesar salad garnish or perfectly cooked guinea fowl with pomme purée and fennel. A single dessert course leaves no room for choice, but when it’s something delicious like comforting bread pudding it’s hard to argue with the concept.

Everything is cooked in plain view behind the small deli counter and Rigby’s limited menu allows him to keep overheads very low, as there’s minimal wastage. Two courses cost €21 and the BYOB policy means you can keep costs down; Rigby’s next door neighbour is a well-stocked wine shop, making life easier.

The atmosphere is fun and relaxed and the décor – clearly done on a shoestring – is low-key bordering on scruffy, making it a risky choice for a posh aunt’s birthday. If you do come for your own birthday however you may be delighted to find the lights get turned down and the whole restaurant sings happy birthday to you as your candlelit dessert is served.

Everything is cooked in plain view behind the small deli counter and Rigby’s limited menu allows him to keep overheads very low, as there’s minimal wastage. Two courses cost €21 and the BYOB policy means you can keep costs down; Rigby’s next door neighbour is a well-stocked wine shop, making life easier.

 An offbeat, lively and entertaining experience.