Formerly Cuisto Perigord, this attractive restaurant is run by returning native John Kelly (the chef). John was introduced to cooking by Neven Maguire (see entry for MacNean House), so you should be able to count on careful sourcing of quality ingredients.
The restaurant is set in what was once an orchard (now mainly carpark and not as well maintained as it used to be), and it’s a pleasing building, with a bar area to one side on entering, big central feature fireplace and lots of character in what now seems like a slightly retro ‘70s style; tables, many of which are windowside, are set up smartly with white cloths and napkins
Hospitable staff present menus promptly, along with the offer of a drink, and you can choose between an à la carte with six or seven choices per course, plus a couple of vegetarian dishes, and the set menu, which is a selection from these.
The cooking style is a blend of modern and traditional, portions are generous and nicely presented. House specialities might include bruschetta with goats cheese and salad, local and traditionally roasted beef and trimmings, local Thornhill duckling, and fish dishes with contemporary accompaniments. Desserts offer both classic and modern choices.
The wine list includes plenty of choice at moderate prices (€20-30 range), and several half bottles. At just €25, Sunday lunch offers good value.
Although, on a recent visit by the Guide, the cooking seemed to have lost some of its sparkle, this is a pleasant place to dine and we hope to find that it has returned to form on our next visit.
Seats 70. D Wed-Sun, 6-10pm (from 7pm Sun); set D €35-45; L Sun only, 12.30-3pm; set Sun L €25; house wine €19.50; SC 10% on groups 10+. * Bar food available daily, 12.30-9pm. Children welcome; reservations recommended. Closed Mon, Tue, 24-26 Dec, Good Fri. Visa, Laser.
