On the ground floor of a new office/apartment complex beside the River Liffey, in the smart premises formerly occupied by the fine dining restaurant ‘Paul’s’, this is now a bistro style restaurant run by the Dunlea family.
It’s a very pleasant setting with a boardwalk set up for al fresco dining (it’s a sun trap in the evening), and a canopy allowing for changeable weather. There’s still a bar with a piano, and an open kitchen – and the décor is still opulent, although there’s now a very different menu and more reasonable prices.
With a view over the boardwalk and river, it’s a very bright and welcoming room with plenty of natural light, and attractively set up with wooden polished tables, good cutlery and glassware, linen napkins and a nightlight in the evening - when there is light continental background music.
Arriving guests are welcomed by pleasant staff, and taken to their table, promptly followed by iced water and crusty bread and butter on a wooden board, along with the Bistro Menu - which offers a very good choice of dishes, from which you can opt for two or three courses at a well priced €25/30.
There’s evident pride in local produce, with credits including Margaret McDonnell’s organic free-range chicken, and organic vegetables herbs from local grower Nicholas Cullen and Pat Clarke’s ‘A Growing Pleasure’, Naas.
You’ll also find Jenny Young’s Castlefarm Cheese, from Athy - and beef and lamb come from one of the country’s most notable butchers, Nolan’s, in the village.
The starter selection is quite eclectic, with nine dishes covering everything from the ubiquitous tiger prawn to sautéed frogs legs in garlic butter, alongside wholesome dishes from closer to home such as fish & bacon chowder, smoked organic salmon fishcakes (very tasty) mussels in green Thai sauce and asparagus with lemon hollandaise.
Main courses cover all bases too; on a summer menu you might find roast Wicklow mountain lamb with provençal herbs; half roasted chicken with lemon & thyme butter; a vegetarian choice such as Napolean of Mediterranean vegetables, served with Pat’s organic leaves, and comforting Nolan’s bangers and mash.
There are also several pies and a choice of fish dishes, but this is beef country and there’s a predictable emphasis on grills – steaks, of course, and also flame-grilled burgers; you might try the House Wagu burger, which is garnished with foie gras, and served with red onion marmalade... in the Guide’s experience it is very, very good; it comes rather cutely with a small jar of ketchup and a cone of house fries set in a glass.
Everything is very well cooked and served attractively, mainly on white plates - the burger comes on a black slate with the burger, ketchup and fries on it, which is a nice touch.
From a nice choice of desserts - ice cream, rhubarb crumble, fresh fruit salad - you might finish with a very good apple strudel vanilla ice cream and crème anglaise, and then a good espresso to finish a tasty meal.
A large wine list (probably inherited when the restaurant changed hands) is due for update, and more reasonably priced wines will be introduced to suit the style of food.
At the back, in the area previously used as a pasta/pizza restaurant, The Kitchen now offers an attractive à la carte menu; there’s some overlap with the kind of dishes on the Bistro Menu, but a stronger emphasis on grills, and a range of salads available as starter or main courses, also a short integrated wine selection, all under €30.
With good food that is set at a reasonable price, together with pleasing surroundings and casual, attentive and pleasant service, the Riverside should do very well.
Open for D daily, 5pm - 10pm; Sat-Sun open 10am - 10pm. Ample parking. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
