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Roscoff Brasserie

Modelled on Paul and Jeannie Rankins' original flagship restaurant (now Cayenne, see entry), which deservedly earned them great critical acclaim, Roscoff Brasserie opened some 3 years ago to the delight of many who admired the Rankins' fine cooking but not the style of the newer restaurants.

Avoiding sharp contemporary style, the decor is timelessly classic: with white linen-clad tables, soft neutral toned furnishings, effective lighting and artwork by Peter Anderson, the overall effect is attractively subdued and low key.

A little reception bar is the perfect place to sip aperitifs and choose from á la carte or set menus which are basically classic French, although new head chef Paul Waterworth allows more local influence the cuisine, in starters like smoked haddock with creamed leeks, poached quail egg and hollandaise, or smoked eel with roast beetroot & horseradish cream.

Simple main courses may include a loin of lamb with honey, garlic, thyme and potato rosti, maybe a steamed symphony of seafood with a caper and saffron butter vinaigrette - or, perhaps, breast of duck with aubergine caponata, potato pancakes and balsamic vinegar.

There's a good cheese plate and desserts, which have always been a Roscoff tour de force, may include good home-made ice creams and a dessert du jour - a boon for regular diners.

The wine list offers a large well selected range from around the world with several excellent 'by the glass options' and interesting half bottles.

Roscoff Brasserie offers a complete contrast to the funky Rankin flagship restaurant, Cayenne and, at its best, a meal here is a very pleasant and relaxed experience, although it can also feel rather serious - and, on the Guide's most recent visit, staff had poor knowledge of the menu and the earlier wow factor created by simple excellence was disappointingly absent.

Seats 86; toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome. L 12-2.15pm; D 6-10.15pm (to 11.15 Fri/Sat). Separate vegetarian á la carte menu available. Closed Jan 1, Jul 12, Dec 25/26, Easter Sun/Mon. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa.

Directions:

Near the City Hall.