The Spinnaker, in its latest incarnation, is one of the most attractive Kinsale restaurants. It was here that the bohemian Hedli MacNeice, widow of poet Louis MacNeice, set the ball rolling in the 1960’s for what became the reputed gourmet capital of Ireland.
The location is unsurpassed, on the Scilly seafront looking out on Kinsale harbour. Now in common ownership with the Tiernans’ Harbour Lodge, next door, it is managed by lessee, Francis Willis.
It is both bar and restaurant, with a busy local trade. The restaurant, on two levels with brass rails and wooden beams, is painted a maritime blue and white with terracotta tiled floors, plain furniture and contemporary, high-quality Irish prints by artist John Graham.
The lightness of tone is reflected in the cooking, and chef Ciara Ní Cheallacháin, once of Café Paradiso, displays nice touches in starters like Thai Fish Cakes and Pork Spring, both with sweet/sour dipping sauces with flavours of sesame and chilli, accompanied by excellent breads: herby white and brown soda.
Main courses of Summer Ravioli with swiss chard and Knocklara sheeps’ cheese and Panfried Hake with apple and fennel, toasted almond butter and boquerones, are presented with colourful simplicity in light sauces. New potatoes may be served alongside braised fennel and courgettes.
This unfussy creativity is evident also in desserts: Panna Cotta with Rhubarb, Flourless Chocolate Cake with Espresso ice cream or a most refreshing Basil & Yoghurt Sorbet accompanying Rosscarbery strawberries. Good filter coffee, decaff not so good.
The wine list matches the food well and, from a selection of about forty bottles, a wine such as Friuli, San Martino, Pinot Grigio is a good example of its kind, with lovely aromas of pear and citrus. Wines are also offered by the glass, and the list includes sparkling wines, champagne, dessert bottles and Port.
Service is cheerful and attentive. All in all, The Spinnaker offers interesting healthy fare at reasonable prices.
Seats 45; D Tue-Sat 6-10pm; house wine about €19.95. Reservations recommended; children welcome. Closed Sun, Mon; 23 Dec - 7 Jan. MasterCard, Visa, Laser
