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Thyme

Smart signage at the Golf Club entrance, and frosted glass doors with the name in elegant black capitals, create a sense of anticipation that should not be disappointed at this unusually located restaurant.

Formerly Shanks, it was for many years a landmark in Irish gastronomic circles and is now run successfully by the affable young Conor McCann, formerly head chef at Roscoff in Belfast, whose temperate, natural and unobtrusive style has established it as a major asset to the North Down/Belfast food scene.

Upstairs a grill bar offers informal meals, downstairs you will find the more serious fine dining on white linen in an elegantly appointed room which has recently been improved with new artwork; in the restaurant, which is managed by partner, Nicola, and separated from the kitchen by a soundproof glass screen, nothing is out of place and everything runs sweetly throughout a meal of impressively consistent quality and apparently effortless endeavour, with the staff appearing to enjoy the experience as much as the diners.

At Thyme, one senses a gifted cook at work and absorbed in his craft. Descriptions of his creations are succinct and simple, yet have a capacity to amaze through flawless and mature cookery, each dish expressing its natural flavours with uncomplicated style.

Top quality produce is used, much of it local, and the well-balanced menu presents luxury ingredients in perfectly judged dishes, possibly including a starter of lightly cured salmon gravdlax with lemon dressing and rocket, main course dishes like Trio of Pork (a confit belly, braised shoulder and roast loin of Tamworth rare breed pork with sautéed apples and calvados) and, on a recent Sunday lunch visit, a very successful, classic roast sirloin of dry-aged beef with Yorkshire pudding and horseradish cream.

Great flavour and appealingly simple presentation are the key characteristics - and this applies equally to delicious desserts - a Valrhona chocolate mousse with homemade sablé biscuits, perhaps, and the now signature dessert of pineapple carpaccio with pink peppercorn syrup and passionfruit sorbet.

The lively, cheerful ambience adds to the experience, as does an extensive and well chosen wine list, and it offers good value for the quality of food and culinary skill.

Sunday lunch and a recently introduced early evening supper menu offer outstanding value.

Seats 60. L Wed-Fri 12-3, D Wed-Sat 5-10pm; Sun all day 12-7. Closed Mon & Tue. Mastercard, Visa, Maestro.

Directions:

2km off main Belfast-Bangor road, opposite Clandeboye Estate..