Most Memorable Meals in 2018 - TEN OF THE BEST

Here, in random order, is just a taster from the dozens of places where we’ve enjoyed terrific meals around the country over the last year - which, of course, also included our 2019 Award Winners, notably the, Restaurant of the Year, The Strawberry Tree at BrookLodge in Co Wicklow, and the cooking of our Chef of the Year, James Coffey, at Park Hotel Kenmare, Co Kerry. As ever, many of the best experiences were outstanding for their simplicity, honest cooking and seasonal flavours, with engaging service the magic ingredient that made them truly special.  

Virginia Park Lodge, Virginia Co Cavan

Beautifully located overlooking Lough Ramor, this eighteenth century sporting lodge charmingly combines informality and grandeur. It has been owned since 2013 by a famous local man, chef Richard Corrigan, who lost no time in seeking out local skills to renovate the house and establish productive gardens (which now also supply his London restaurants in season). It has become a highly desirable private venue for weddings, corporate events and sporting weekends and this Blue Book member also opens quite often for individual reservations at weekends as a pop up (book meals and accommodation online). It makes an elegant and atmospheric setting for Richard Corrigan’s famously direct seasonal, ingredients-led cooking - and a wonderful family get-together here in the searing heat of July 2018 was truly memorable, particularly for the quality of the local and garden produce, and the respectful TLC bestowed upon it. And the favourite dish? If forced to choose, it would have to be the superb freshly-dug Pink Fir Apple potatoes….
 

Bastion, Kinsale Co Cork

Having been a hotspot for discerning diners since the 1970s Kinsale has many long established favourites in situ, so newer arrivals have to do something pretty special to find a niche. Prosecco on tap was one of the more unusual features that initially attracted attention to Helen Noonan and Paul McDonald’s relaxed venue - but they also offer an outstanding food experience, even for this foodiest of towns. Chef Paul brought experience in top kitchens to their venture here and, not only is his cooking innovative and the presentation excellent, but his menus - styled ‘international’ - showcase local produce with great creativity. Tasting Menus actively encourage diners to be adventurous, as does the wine list, with many by the glass. Once again this year we found that same attention to detail, with delicious food and excellent service from friendly and helpful staff who go out of their way to ensure a relaxing experience - all making Bastion special.
 

OX, Belfast

The opening of Stephen Toman and Alain Kerloc’h’s ambitious yet relaxed Lagan-side restaurant in 2013 marked a sea change in Belfast dining. Describing itself simply as ‘A restaurant with seasonal creativity’, it combines stylish modern ingredients-led food (where vegetables and fruit are often the main elements) with a casual vibe, and its immediate success inspired a lot of re-thinking in other leading restaurants. Five years on, Belfast has changed a lot and Northern Ireland as a whole is establishing itself as an international destination for its food and hospitality - and OX remains one of the most consistently exciting dining rooms in the country. OX’s short (and reasonably priced) menus are models of pared-down promise and Stephen Toman’s cooking is exquisite, with great attention to detail - and flavour is never sacrificed to the artful presentation and beautiful colours on his carefully designed plates. This standard is mirrored by impeccable service from a great team, making for a wonderful, affordable restaurant. And there’s an atmospheric bar, Ox Cave, next door too.
 

The Lodge At Ashford Castle, Cong Co Mayo

In common ownership with neighbouring Ashford Castle, the heart of this boutique hotel is a fine period house with views down Lough Corrib from the bar, restaurant and the best rooms. Accommodation - including a couple of special harbour view suites in the old house - is comfortable and stylish, and as well as an atmospheric ground floor bar, there’s exciting food and drink offered on the first floor where theatrical cocktails get things off to a great start for diners at Wildes Restaurant. Here head chef Jonathan Keane - a longtime champion of seasonal produce from the West of Ireland, especially Co Mayo - serves wonderfully imaginative cuisine in an intimate series of rooms, with lough views from window tables. You can expect an unusual dining experience at Wildes, backed up by an interesting wine list, and - like Ashford Castle itself - The Lodge has had the benefit of a lot of TLC in the current ownership, so improved management and staff training allow the hotel and its fine restaurant to shine.
 

Mews,  Baltimore Co Cork

Tucked away down a laneway near the square of this popular fishing village, Mews has gained well deserved international recognition of late. With a sunroom attached that floods the small restaurant with light, the distinctive low-beamed stone building is reminiscent of Brittany - and, while perhaps an unlikely place to find an ambitious fine dining destination, that’s just what this atmospheric spot is. In the ownership of Robert Collender and James Ellis since 2015, the developments that regular visitors notice year on year belie Mews’ status as a seasonal restaurant and would be much more typical of a city business. But - while there are variations to the team each season - the owners’ huge enthusiasm and love for what they do is palpable and head chef Ahmet Dede turns out extraordinarily precise cooking from the tiny kitchen. Short, waste-free menus are designed to showcase the stunning local produce at its best - and this they do exceptionally well. Stand out dishes are too plentiful to mention - the fish cooking is particularly good - but for us this year it was a single local potato that held us in its thrall. We longed for another, but perhaps that was the point. It’s all about ‘terroir’ and, whether at one of the elegantly appointed white-clothed tables or the convivial Chef’s Table, it’s a lovely place in which to enjoy outstanding local foods - and certain to be a memorable experience.

Nash 19 Restaurant, Cork

Claire Nash’s bustling city centre restaurant is proof, if it were needed, that a restaurant doesn’t have to be aiming for the stars to be somewhere very special. Nash 19 has been home from home for its many loyal customers since 1992 and it’s easy to see why - they do simple and they do it really well. It’s just a stone’s throw from the English Market – the source of much of the local and indigenous produce they are known for, including vegetables, fresh sustainable catches and meats - and there’s a real sense of community about everything they do. With entrances on two streets, the lively space includes the Sternview Gallery, which is a constantly changing source of interest to complement the terrific food. ‘Simple food cooked honestly’ is their mantra and, whether for a deeply flavoursome bite or just a cup of coffee (all of the very friendly staff are barista trained), Nash 19’s place as a top Cork daytime destination is well deserved. In Claire Nash’s own words, ‘We simply love our food!’ And it shows.
 

Deanes EIPIC, Belfast

You wouldn’t know it from his youthful demeanour, but Michael Deane has been a powerhouse behind Belfast’s good food story for decades. He’s a tireless ambassador for the good things produced in Northern Ireland, and the Howard Street ‘mother ship’ trio - Meat Locker, Love Fish and EIPIC - has long provided a welcome berth for us. The colourful Love Fish and Meat Locker are informal, convivial centres of excellence, while EIPIC is very much the fine dining destination - an uber comfortable grown-up space in subdued tones, in which to experience the unhurried service of carefully considered menus, and a wine list that’s sure to please any wine buff. Here Northern Irish head chef Alex Greene (who worked at Gordon Ramsay restaurants in London and The Cliff House in Ardmore before returning to Belfast in 2016 to work again for his former boss) transforms seasonal ingredients from hand picked suppliers into delicious, perfectly cooked dishes that are served with immaculate professionalism at EIPIC. An evening destination, with lunch offered only on Friday, this special restaurant feels expensive, yet (especially at lunch) its range of menus offers an opportunity to enjoy the full experience without necessarily having a lengthy meal - and it gives consistent value at every level.
 

Tartare, Galway

Owned by leading Galway restaurateurs JP McMahon and Drigin Gaffey of the EatGalway restaurant group, Tartare is the youngest of the three sister restaurants and almost directly across the street from the most famous, the fine dining destination, Aniar (‘from the west’). While more casual this small, pared-back space shares the ethos of its nearest sibling, focusing on in-season West of Ireland produce. By day there’s a menu of sourdough sandwiches, soups and organic salads; by night, the focus is on signature dishes including plates of oysters and the classic dish it is named for, beef (or fish, or vegetable) tartare, accompanied by organic, biodynamic and natural wines. Plates may be small, but they’re an exercise in balance - a magnificently simple, satisfying winter dish of venison with nori pesto and sea vegetables being a case in point - and creative, more-ish desserts like a raw milk mousse with pumpkin seed meringue demanding a return visit, as soon as possible.
 

Vaughans Anchor Inn, Liscannor Co Clare

The Vaughan family’s traditional bar has great character, with open fires and lots of memorabilia. Although famed for their seafood platters (and they are fantastic - and great value too), there’s much more to the menu than that: Denis Vaughan is an exceptionally talented and creative chef and uses as much local produce as possible. And everything really is fresh - the menu may even be changed in mid-stream because there’s something new coming up off the boats. Backed up by creativity and classical skills, this commitment to ultra-freshness is the trump card - seen at its best perhaps in simple dishes such as scampi and chips, which can so often be a disappointment. Great cooking is matched here by excellent service - and, while quality food can never be cheap, it’s great value too.
 

Bushmills Inn, Bushmills Co Antrim

A welcoming all-year turf fire and old country furniture in the hall sets the traditional tone of Alan Dunlop’s famously interesting and well-run Blue Book hotel on the Causeway Coast. Originally a 19th century coaching inn, its public rooms include a unique circular library and an atmospheric gas-lit bar - and the old world ambience continues in the rooms, which (as we were reminded on a chilly late autumn visit) are cosy and pleasingly rustic yet meticulously planned for comfort. The Inn is also known for its wholesome food - pride in Irish ingredients and tradition is obvious in Taste of Ulster inspired menus that may include dishes like Brotchan (‘an old name for “aitin n drinkin” soup’). A simple lunch here in the heat of summer 2018 lingers in the mind - and not just for the wholesome, tasty fare but also the cheery and very professional staff who were keen to go the extra mile and make a special occasion out of a light meal.