BESIDE THE SEA

Gorman’s Clifftop House
Ballydavid, near Dingle, Co Kerry

Now that it’s time to shake off those winter blues with bracing spring walks, why not take the bull by the horns and head for those places with waves of invigorating negative ions coming in off the sea – and, of course, cosy bars with open fires and snug dining rooms to come back to after a good dose of fresh air and exercise. With all this in mind it would be hard to think of anywhere that can beat Dingle as an all-year destination for lovers of the outdoor life, good food, good drinking and good music – and, unless you want to be right in the town, the place to be is Sile and Vincent Gorman’s well-named guesthouse and restaurant Clifftop House, which is beautifully situated near Smerwick Harbour on the Slea Head scenic drive and Dingle Way walking route. It is, as they say themselves, “just a great place to relax and unwind”. And a very comfortable place it is to do this too: the atmosphere is welcoming and laid-back, with lots of natural materials, warm colours and pottery from the nearby Louis Mulcahy workshops - and open fires, newspapers and books in two generous lounging areas with comfy sofas and armchairs. The bedrooms are very comfortable too, with beautiful satin cotton sheets, broadband, TV and thoughtfully finished bathrooms with extra large Turkish bath sheets; most rooms have king size beds and four superior rooms have jacuzzi bath. Vincent Gorman is the chef and the restaurant – which is open to non-residents - has large windows commanding superb sea views and, on fine evenings, spectacular sunsets; this is a wonderful place to enjoy home-cooked dinners of seafood chowder, local fish, the ever-popular sirloin steak – served house style, with scallion mash, mushroom & brandy sauce – a good vegetarian option, and delicious desserts. Excellent breakfasts are served in his magnificent setting too, setting you up handsomely for a day in the fresh air.


Kinara Restaurant
318 Clontarf Road Dublin 3

On the coast road from Dublin to Howth, this smart two-storey restaurant specialising in authentic Pakistani and Northern Indian cuisine has earned a loyal following, and was the Sharwood’s Ethnic Restaurant of the Year in 2004. And, although fans from a wide area congregate here mainly for the fine food (the kitchen team have over 80 years experience between them and the quality of both food and cooking is exemplary), attentive professional service and fair prices, the scenic location overlooking Bull Island does it no harm at all: fine views - especially from the first floor dining room - are a feature at lunch time or on fine summer evenings, and there’s a cosy upstairs bar with Indian cookbooks to inspire guests waiting for a table or relaxing after dinner. And great places nearby to walk it off afterwards too - St Anne’s Park is close by, as well as Bull Island, and the endless bayside walking and cycling route. (D daily, L Thu, Fri & Sun).


Portaferry Hotel
The Strand Portaferry Co Down BT22 1PE

If you’re tempted by a break in the North, the village of Portaferry on the Ards Peninsula could be a rewarding choice – involving a sea voyage too, if you arrive or leave via the highly efficient Strangford ferry. And, while not luxurious, the cosy 18th-century Portaferry Hotel on the waterfront is the place to be, overlooking the lough towards pretty Strangford village and the National Trust property, Castleward. The bar, a comfortable sitting room, and the restaurant have a cosy, well-kept old-fashioned feeling, good local food is served in both the bar and the slightly cottagey restaurant (where an excellent breakfast is also served); it’s a lovely place with personality, and friendly, helpful staff. Open all year.


Castlemurray House Hotel
St. John's Point Dunkineely Co Donegal

Martin and Marguerite Howley’s beautifully located clifftop hotel 20 km from Donegal Town on the coast road to St John’s Point has wonderful sea views over the ruined castle after which it is named. With a cosy little bar, a residents’ sitting room and bedrooms of character furnished with a mixture of modern and older pieces, it’s a comfortable and relaxing place to stay, and there’s no shortage of opportunity for fresh air and exercise nearby. The restaurant – known for its local seafood in summer, with more red meats, poultry and game off-season - is on the seaward corner of the hotel overlooking the sea and the castle (which is floodlit at night), and an open fire makes for real warmth in this dramatic location, even on the coldest evening. Lovely breakfasts are served in the restaurant, and there’s an appealing bar menu too (phone to check times).


Rathmullan House
Rathmullan Co Donegal

Beautifully situated on the shores of Lough Swilly, the Wheeler family’s gracious nineteenth century house is fairly grand, but it’s not too formal - and there’s a cellar bar which can be very relaxed. Bedrooms in the original house vary in size, decor, outlook and cost, but all are comfortably furnished in traditional country house style, and ten very desirable, individually decorated new bedrooms include a pet-friendly room with a special couch for your pooch. Donegal in general and Rathmullan House in particular (our Country House of the Year 2007) offer laid-back charm and a special sense of place - and you can look forward to excellent upbeat traditional food based on the very best of local and artisan foods too, in the famous Weeping Elm Restaurant and either of the bars. The Children’s Menu is a special feature too - a proper little person’s version of the adult menu – and their breakfasts are renowned.


Quay Cottage Restaurant
The Harbour Westport Co Mayo

Westport is another great all-year destination, and this delightful recent Tidy Towns winner has an exceptional choice of good accommodation, and also loads of lovely activities nearby (climb Croagh Patrick… visit Achill Island…). Wherever you choose to stay, you’ll love Kirstin and Peter MacDonagh’s charming and immaculately maintained stone quayside restaurant just outside the town beside the gates to Westport House; it has great atmosphere - cosy and informal, with scrubbed pine tables and maritime decor, fresh local seafood really stars when available, but there’s plenty else too, including steaks, honey roast duckling and imaginative vegetarian options. Closed Sun & Mon off season.


Renvyle House Hotel
Renvyle Connemara Co Galway

This wonderfully remote and romantic Lutyens-esque house has a fascinating history and is set in magnificently rugged scenery; once reached, the hotel seems to be snuggling down for shelter and, with its dark beams, rug strewn floors, has a cosy atmosphere - and a snug conservatory where guests can contemplate the healthy outdoor activity on site (trout fishing, a 9 hole golf course…) and the archaeological expeditions, horse riding, hill walking, scuba diving and sea fishing which are all on offer nearby. Head chef Tim O’Sullivan’s excellent food (in bar and restaurant) features Connemara produce.... All this, plus the scent of a turf fire and a comfortable armchair, can be magic.


Aldridge Lodge
Duncannon New Ross Co Wexford

Highly-regarded Euro-Toques chef Billy Whitty and his partner Joanne Harding run their modern stone fronted dormer home as a restaurant with rooms; overlooking the picturesque fishing village of Duncannon, with lovely views of the beach and mountains, there’s a cosy seating area and Billy’s fine training shows through in the many delightful dishes on dinner menus which are changed daily. Four well-appointed bedrooms (one with full bath and shower, the others with shower only) are quiet and comfortable to - this can be a hard place to leave. (Aldridge Lodge was our Newcomer of the Year in 2006). Closed on Mondays.


La Riva
2 Henrietta Street Crescent Quay Wexford Co Wexford

Wexford Town has great character and plenty of good places to stay (the newly re-located McMenamin’s Townhouse, for example, or perhaps the recently reincarnated Whites Hotel) but, wherever you lay your head, you’ll want to visit La Riva, opposite the Commodore Barry Statue: aiming to serve ‘non-pretentious seasonal food, that allows the best local ingredients to shine’, proprietor-chef Warren Gillen is increasingly recognised as one of the leading chefs in the area. And his first floor restaurant – which is approached up rather steep stairs, creating a wonderful contrast as you emerge into a bright room which overlooks the quay and twinkling lights along the shore - is imbued with that indefinably warm atmosphere of happy people dining... Closed last week of Feb.


The Hungry Monk
Church Road Greystones Co Wicklow

While not in a harbourside location, blackboard specials guaranteed to sharpen the appetite at Pat Keown’s cosy and hospitable first floor restaurant always include the day’s seafood dishes - usually a fine range of ultra-fresh fish just up from Greystones harbour – and it’s a place known equally for Pat’s infectious love of wine, the monk-related decor which is a bit of fun and interesting good quality food at affordable prices, notably the all-day Sunday lunch. Despite the occasional nod to passing trends, there is no pretence at cutting edge style so you may be lucky enough to find faithful renditions of old favourites not often seen now, like lambs kidneys dijonnaise and, perhaps, a special treat like suckling pig. And, when it comes to fresh air and exercise you have not only the harbour to walk, but all of the Wicklow Hills on the doorstep.