In this basement premises at the canal end of Baggot Street, Pol OhEannraich, former head chef at Dax, aims to offer 'quality food at reasonable prices' along with a broad choice of wines (a full 60 wines are available both by the full bottle and 275ml carafe).
This Dublin restaurants interior is more expansive than suggested by the somewhat foreboding entrance - and, hidden out at the back, a small terrace makes for an attractive option on sunny afternoons and balmy evenings. A tapas menu is served both here and at the small bar area, including perhaps some finger-licking gambas sautéed in garlic, rosemary and lemon.
Through in the restaurant proper, amoderately priced daily lunch menu offers two or three courses, while an early evening menu served from 5.30pm through to 7.30pm keeps prices lower than the prime cuts served on the short à la carte menu.
From the Guide's first visit, Pol's previous form suggested this could be somewhere that would carve out a niche for itself – and how right that hunch has turned out to be.
Since then this neat but unassuming place has impressed with accomplished cooking and good value, and it looks set to take its place among the next wave of restaurants coming on stream with new generation owner-chefs at the helm.
Nice well-priced wine list too.