Named after the previous owner, Helen Mullane and Armel Whyte’s café-bar seems much older than it is, as the whole interior was reconstructed with salvaged materials (the flooring was once in the London Stock Exchange).
It is brilliantly done, with the long, narrow bar divided up in the traditional way, with oilcloth-covered tables, now extending into a restaurant in the house next door. It is the type of contemporary, self-confident Irish eating house that visitors hope for but do not always find in every provincial town.
Helen is an impressive hostess, buzzing about, dealing with orders and queries with grace and efficiency, backed up by an organised kitchen playing to its strengths: great raw materials, careful cooking by a mix of old hands and new recruits, well led by Armel.
Lunch dishes executed with flair include great soups - the most delightfully fishy chowder, for example, or an authentic French onion soup complete with gorgeous stringy cheese.
The all-day menu offers excellent mains ranging from ranging from around €17 to €27, highlighting the day's fresh fish and seafood from Fenit and with some good meat dishes - a more-ish chargrilled pork rack cutlet with chorizo and chickpea ragu, red onion tartine and apple puree at €16.50, for example, or perhaps north Kerry beef fillet with crisp onion petals, grilled field mushroom and peppercorn sauce.
Fresh fish and crab are always a treat - perfectly cooked and presented with just the right level of panache – and includes Fenit Bay crab claws, roast hake fillet and a spicy Thai prawn and coconut curry.
Finish with delicious homemade desserts, such as delicious baked pecan tart with macadamia nut ice-cream and an innovative lime mousse martini.
Vegetarians are well looked after too - a favourite is the baked filo parcel of St Tola goat cheese, served with toasted nuts, Mediterranean vegetables and tossed house salad.
And there's no chance of things getting stale around here, as theme nights are held every Thursday when the kitchen team has fun with menus from France, Italy, America, China and others around the world. They've been doing this for years and it's an ongoing success.
It's casual dining at its best - and the three rooms are delightful too. If only every Irish town had somewhere like Allo's.
