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Balzac

Balzac is the latest incarnation in the distinctive building on Dawson Street, which formerly housed La Stampa and, with its grand Belle Epoque entrance, it never fails to impress. It has now been revisited by former head chef, Paul Flynn, whose consultant's stamp of assiduously thought out, refined Bistro cooking defines the new menu.

Both the bar and the wonderful dining room, with its magnificent ceiling, have been fitted and furnished with a view to casual luxury, in keeping with the cuisine. Black tables with linen runners and napkins, simple stainless cutlery and glasses, white ware, subdued lighting, mirrors and the formidable flower pot centrepiece on a wooden floor coalesce to create a cosmopolitan ambience, added to by the multinational waiting staff.

The menu is a delightful, uncomplicated read, offering starters like oysters mignonette, caramelised onion tart with Corleggy cheese, and assiette of charcuterie. Innovatively, a section is devoted to dishes available as starters or main courses and priced accordingly dishes like grilled field mushrooms with rocket and parmesan, warm carpaccio of lamb with spiced aubergines, and roast whole prawns with saffron cream dressing.

The list of main courses is comprehensive, catering for carnivores and vegetarians with dishes such as crispy crubeens & colcannon, spaghetti Balzac, grilled hake with black pudding, raisins and pine nuts; house specialities include Fondue of Shellfish for two persons (e120) and rib roast of beef carved in the room (e25 per person); roasts are a big thing on Sundays, when a selection of roasts is offered along with other options on the Sunday lunch menu and special side dishes include potatoes roast in duck fat.

The dessert menu offers plenty of treats plus the unusual option of soft cream cheese with herbs and warm croûtons - and different, too, is the basket of warm Madeleines as petits fours. The wine list at the back of the menu is short, pragmatic and representative of old and new worlds.

The food at Balzac is a celebration of quality ingredients, served in one of Ireland's finest dining rooms and - despite some inconsistency in both cooking and service, experienced by the Guide during Balzac's first months - the experience is sure to be enjoyable. And, aside from the dining experience, there is also plenty of entertainment to be found in the bar, where internationally renowned mixologist Alan Kavanagh shakes up a little magic each evening.

*Balzac is part of the La Stampa complex, overlooking the Mansion House in central Dublin. In addition to Balzac, the complex includes accommodation, a spa, Tiger Bec's restaurant and Sam Sara Café Bar.

Unsuitable for children after 8pm. Seats 200 (private room, 70); reservations recommended; L daily, 12-3pm, set L €28.50; D Mon-Sat, 6-11pm, early bird D, €28, 6-7.30pm, set D €50, also a la carte. Sun open all day, 1-8pm. Closed D 24 Dec, 25-27 Dec, Good Fri. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Opposite the Mansion House on Dawson Street