Sophisticated, elegant, beautiful – just some of the descriptions deserved by the impressive Dublin restaurants in La Stampa Hotel. Arguably Dublin’s most striking dining room, its proprietor has recently teamed up with renowned chef Conrad Gallagher to create The Dining Room, a fine dining experience.
It would be hard to miss La Stampa, with its big sign highlighting the new venture, and first time visitors will feel the sense of occasion as they enjoy pre-dinner drinks at the hotel’s handsome little bar.
From here a moodily lit corridor leads to the main event, a lofty space with huge mirrors, rows of linen-clad tables, deep drapes, and a high ceiling that features panels of backlit stained glass. A headless statue soars above the room, creating a grand and theatrical centrepiece.
Conrad’s cooking is known for its eye appeal and the pretty-as-a-picture dishes served here will not disappoint his fans. Presentation is superb, and the combination of flavours, for the most part, is good.
Starters include a choice of beautifully constructed shellfish cocktails – choose from crab, lobster, shrimp and Dublin Bay prawn – each served with superb accompaniments.
Mains include a broad mix that should find favour with all tastes. Flavour pairings are exciting; perhaps seared yellow fin tuna with sesame crust served rare with soy cream, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, beansprouts, and chilli or mini Wagyu beef burgers with raclette cheese, hummus, frizzled onions and parmesan chips. Steaks are a speciality too.
The wine list offers a choice of 65 bottles, mainly in the mid-price range and with a good selection of house wines.
Portions are sensibly judged, though zealous staff may encourage tasty but unnecessary side orders. Some dishes are better than others, and prices are high.
The dessert menu may seem a little safe, but the warm chocolate fondant is a triumph; served with chocolate brownie and pistachio ice cream, it is wonderfully light with a silky interior and deserves to become a house speciality.
Staff are pleasant, although some need more experience to avoid unnecessary errors – both during service and when taking reservations.
A hefty 12.5% service charge is applied to all bills, and it is disappointing to learn that the staff only receive 40% of this.
Seats 200 (private room, 70); L daily 12.30-2.30; D daily 5-11pm. Pre-theatre dinner 5-6.30pm daily. Unsuitable for children after 8pm; reservations recommended. Closed 25 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
