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Brocka-on-the-Water Restaurant

Anthony and Anne Gernon's almost-waterside restaurant has attracted a following disproportionate to its size over the years and, although it has been extended at the back to include a high-ceilinged conservatory style room which opens onto a garden patio, it is still basically carved out of the lower half of a family home that is by no means huge.

The atmosphere is very much a "proper restaurant" - yet with all the warmth of welcome that the family situation implies. There's a reception room with an open fire, comfy chairs, interesting things to read and look at (Anthony's a dab hand at wood carving) - and aperitifs served in generous wine glasses, while you read a menu that promises good things to come in the adjoining dining room and conservatory.

Guests arriving in daylight will notice hens clucking around a garden well-stocked with fruit and vegetables - promising the best of all possible beginnings for your dinner. Seasonal menus depend on availability of course - if you are here in late spring, for example, you might be offered avocado pear with local goats cheese, yoghurt, capers & wild garlic - but there are always some specialities retained by popular demand, including Cooleeney cheese croquettes with home-made chutney (Cooleeney is one of Ireland's finest cheeses, made by Breda Maher on the family farm near Thurles).

A late summer menu might include pork medallion in a herb crust with plum & cranberry - and there will always be home-grown vegetables in season.

Brocka on the Water : Seats 30 (private room, 30); air conditioning; toilets wheelchair accessible; reservations strongly advised. D 6.30-9 Mon-Sat in summer (call to check opening times off-season). Set D about €40, also á la carte & Vegetarian Menu. SC discretionary. House wine about €22. Closed Sun. No Credit Cards.

Directions:

Lough Derg drive, half way between Nenagh and Portumna.