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Chapter One Restaurant

In the former home of the great John Jameson of whiskey fame, Chapter One was our Restaurant of the Year way back in 2001 when everybody thought southside was the place to be. Since then many others have discovered that one of Ireland's finest restaurant resides in this arched basement beneath the Irish Writers Museum and - despite being the darling of the media these days - it remains the Guide's favourite when dining out in Dublin.

Together with an exceptional team including head chef Garrett Byrne, restaurant manager Declan Maxwell and sommelier Ian Brosnan, the proprietors - chef-patron Ross Lewis and front of house manager Martin Corbett - have earned an enviable reputation here, for outstanding modern Irish cooking and superb service from friendly and well-informed staff.

It's an atmospheric room with original granite walls and old brickwork contrasting with elegant modern décor. A recent revamp has seen the comfy reception area halved in size: it's still a smart place for an aperitif but has made way for a larger dining room and a few more tables - good news indeed for those struggling to get a booking.

The cooking - classic French lightly tempered by modern influences - showcases specialist Irish produce whenever possible, notably on a magnificent charcuterie trolley, which showcases West Cork producer Fingal Ferguson, among others, and is a treat not to be missed. Another unusual speciality is a fish plate which is a carefully balanced compilation of five individual fish and seafood dishes, served with melba toast. Other specialities include slow cooked meat - a sweet-flavoured shoulder of spring lamb, for example, with creamed onion and curry spice, roast carrot and garlic, kidney, and boulangére potato - and, of course, a cheese menu offering farmhouse cheeses in peak condition. But many guests will stall at dessert, as an utterly irresistible choice of half a dozen delectable dishes is offered, each with its own dessert wine or champagne...

An excellent wine list leans towards the classics and offers many fairly priced treats for the wine buff, and also carefully selected house wines and wines by the glass, including a range of dessert wines.

Another special treat is the perfectly timed pre-theatre menu, for which Chapter One is rightly renowned: depart for one of the nearby theatres after your main course, and return for dessert after the performance - perfect timing, every time. Like the lunch menu, early dinner offers outstanding value.

Small conferences. Air conditioning. Children welcome. Seats 85 (private rooms,16 & 20). L Tue-Fri, 12.30-2.30, D Tue-Sat, 6-10.45. Set L €35. Pre-theatre menu €32.50 (6-6.30); Set D €57.50; also á la carte (Tasting Menu, for entire parties, €70). House wine €24.50. SC discretionary. Closed L Sat, all Sun & Mon, 2 weeks Christmas, 2 weeks August. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Top of O'Connell Street, north side of Parnell Square, opposite Garden of Remembrance, beside Hugh Lane Gallery.